A frequent flier who drinks "well on the ground and far worse in the air" has assessed the calibre of premium wines offered by airlines.

In a Wall Street Journal article, Lettie Teague spoke to a number of airlines and their consultants about the science of choosing in-flight wines and Champagnes.

Doug Frost, a consultant for American Airlines, said wines served in first class must give "a real impression of a label", while business class travellers tended to be "more open to experimentation".

Wines that are "fruity and lush", such as Zinfandel, drink better in the air than more structured wines like Super Tuscans, according to Andrea Robinson of Delta Air Lines.

Meanwhile, Singapore Airlines chooses Dom Perignon as its first class Champagne, as well as recently introducing a tasting series of six Grand Cru Burgundies, including Faiveley Corton Clos des Cortons 2006 and Jadot Clos Vougeot 2004.

Last month, Indian airline Jet Airways won the Global Traveller's Best Airline in the Champagne/Sparkling Wine category for its Lanson Noble Cuvee Brut Millesime 1999.