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Burgundy growers surprised by quality of 2010

The wine world is currently getting very excited about 2010 Burgundy, with critics across the board praising its quality.

There is nothing particularly new about this - improving wine techniques and warmer temperatures seem to be producing more and more vintages that people want to term 'classic'.

You don't even have to go that far back. 2009 Burgundy was considered an excellent vintage but the 2010s are said to be a more accurate representation of the Burgundian style, with producers citing the "leaner, tauter character" than their predecessors.

But back when the grapes were picked and processed in the autumn of 2010, winegrowers had no idea that something so special would be produced.

The head of Domaine Armand Rousseau, Eric Rousseau, told renowned critic and Financial Times wine columnist Jancis Robinson that the quality of the wine only became apparent after the malolactic fermentations were complete.

"In mid-September 2010 it was almost unimaginable that we would be able to produce wines with such precision and concentration," added Romain Taupeno of Domaine Taupenot-Merme.

Jean-Marc Roulot of Domaine Roulot even revealed that his whites remained unconvincing in the spring, before flourishing later on.

The reason these experienced Burgundy winemakers were all so surprised by the vintage is because of the difficult growing conditions they had to endure.

Some vines died off in the cold December, while those that flowered had their growth stunted by periods of sunshine followed by weeks of rain and low temperatures.

Most growers reported grapes that were much smaller than usual. While this did help to prevent the onset of fungal infection by leaving more space in the bunches, final yields were very low.

Total volumes were revealed to be down by as much as 40 per cent; as the en primeur campaign continues, many merchants have reported to the Drinks Business that they have been forced to reduce the size of their pack offerings - some to just three bottles - in order to satisfy regular clients and new enthusiasts.

In Bordeaux, quality vintages of recent years have commanded higher and higher prices, but despite the low volumes and good standard, Burgundy estates have chosen not to price the 2010s too highly.

Ms Robinson notes that growers "have been less rapacious than they might have been" when it comes to pricing, while Wall Street Journal critic Will Lyons has urged wine enthusiasts to buy 2010 Burgundy, claiming it could be the "last exceptional and affordable vintage".

The message is certainly getting through to enthusiasts in Britain.

Head sommelier and manager of Lutyens Restaurant Andrew Connor, claims the whites are especially good, adding that the 2010 vintage combines the power of 2009 with the elegance and acidity of 2008.

However, Mr Connor suggests in his column for City AM that by the time most of these wines are bottled in the next few weeks, they will have been sold.

He stresses the importance of buying early, as although prices may be relatively low now, surging demand from Asia means many of these wines will be traded and re-traded, with the values being pushed up each time.

"By the time restaurants are starting to list these wines they may have changed hands (figurative speaking) many times and the prices (already high) will be stratospheric," he notes.

The expert's personal recommendation is from one of the smaller Burgundy estates: "I was mightily impressed by the wines of Cecile Tremblay, based in the village of Vosne-Romanee, which, while not cheap (Burgundy rarely is), show a correspondence between price and quality that makes them particularly attractive."



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The 2010 Burgundy vintage is of an extremely high standard.
The 2010 Burgundy vintage is of an extremely high standard.
The 2010 Burgundy vintage is of an extremely high standard.