2006 Vosne Romanee Les Malconsorts

Sylvain Cathiard

92Average Score
flagBurgundy / France

Cathiard's 2006 Vosne-Romanee Les Malconsorts allies purple plum with decadent, heady, faded lily-like floral perfume and dark spices, including clove, cinnamon, and star anise. This has greater density and tanninity than other Cathiard 2006s I tasted, but the texture is nonetheless refined. There is an intriguing fresh, clean meatiness here, akin to freshly-butchered, meadow-fed lamb, and a Latakia-like smokiness threads its way through the long braiding of floral, mineral, fruit, and carnal that is this Pinot's fascinating finish. Here is the mystery of Vosne personified. I can see no reason to overlook this in the next few years, but would definitely plan on following it for at least as decade. ||My report in issue 171 was in error – as both Cathiard and de Montille let me know – in reporting that Cathiard's production of wine from this cru would drop dramatically in consequence of his having agreed to compensation for relinquishing his lease on a share of its acreage. In fact, the portion of Malconsorts that Cathiard farmed under that former agreement never informed his domaine bottling, whose production level will thus be uninfluenced by its absence. Sylvain Cathiard said sorting out rot was not a major challenge for him in 2006 (but in 2007, yes) and that at most 10% of fruit was rejected. Unfortunately, he did not offer me the opportunity to taste half of his wines and I was unable to catch up with them subsequently.||A Becky Wassserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70 Wine Advocate.December, 2009

David Schildknecht, Vinous    Score: 92/100

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