The 2008 Volnay-Santenots is incomparably classy. Dark berries, spices and licorice are some of the nuances that emerge from this strikingly pure, beautiful wine. The Santenots possesses marvelous integrity and fabulous overall balance. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2033. May 2011, www.robertparker.com
Antonio Galloni, VinousScore: 95/100
Lafon’s 2008 Volnay Santenots du Milieu smells of fresh blackberry mingled with kirsch and white pepper, which follow on a bright, pungent palate strongly marked by the chew of fruit skin and by black tea- and bark-like tannins. This finishes strongly, if a bit obstreperously, but increasing distance from its late malo may well permit it to display more richness. I would cellar it only with regular monitoring to see how the tannins evolve, but even in its youth it is sure to display considerable talent as a red meat accompaniment. ||Dominique Lafon’s vineyards were hit hard by the July, 2008 hail, with his largest site – Santenots du Milieu – worst hit, and reduced in production by two-thirds, all of which he bottled together, rather than (as more usually) declassifying the young vines portion to village Volnay. Crop loss was due to dehydration as well, a factor compounded by late harvest. (“But before October,” relates Lafon, “the fruit simply was not ripe.”) Lafon’s chagrin – coming on the heels of two challenging vintages for Pinot – was more than assuaged, though, by the superb quality of his Meursaults in both 2007 and 2008 (on which I shall report soon in these pages).||A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet (various importers), fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70; A Daniel Johnnes Selection imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY, tel. (516) 677 9300; Classic Wine Imports, Norwood, MA, tel. (781) 352 1100; Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA, tel. (510) 559 1040 Wine Advocate.June, 2010
David Schildknecht, VinousScore: 89/100
Burgundy / France