Paul Cluver’s Seven Flags Chardonnay is a selection of fruit from the estate’s oldest vines – and the 2018 is stunning. Instantly alluring, intense aromas of toast, spice, vanilla, juicy peach, cantaloupe melon and citrus pith leap from the glass. Despite the almost exotic nose, the palate is amazingly poised. It’s ripe and lush, with remarkable intensity. The 30% new oak and bâtonnage give it a silken, voluptuous texture – but that generosity is kept in check by a line of pithy acidity that holds everything in place. Waves of perfectly ripe stone fruit, toast and citrus build to a moreish, saline finish that leaves you reaching for another glass.