2004 Riesling Clos St Hune

Trimbach

The 2004 Riesling Clos Ste-Hune smells deliciously, mysteriously and complexly of grapefruit, blood orange, sassafras, mirabelle distillate, licorice, truffle, musk, lily, and chalk. Creamy and much richer on the palate than its Frederic Emile counterpart, it displays no less sheer density, stony minerality, or penetration. The finish here is truly palate staining, and as multi-faceted as the aromas. It would probably be a shame to uncork a bottle (especially given the aftermarket prices I have been seeing on these wines!) for at least a couple of more years after it is released in 2009. ||The Trimbach family continues to render some of the world’s finest Riesling; to uphold the principle that wine of Alsace (unless V.T.) should not taste sweet; to release wines only when they believe those wines say “it’s time”; and to ship 40,000 cases (or 40% of their production) to the United States. Notable developments on the occasion of my recent visit were the enhanced quality of their reserve level wines as well as outstanding performances with Pinot Gris. The wines on which I report below include some of those currently in the marketplace or about to appear, but most of the 2004s and 2005s will not be released for 1-3 more years. By the time early October rains struck in 2005, the team here had harvested everything other than their top Riesling. Yet, even though some of their most striking successes were picked unusually early, the upper-tier Rieslings here seem to have suffered neither dilution nor obscurant botrytis. The Trimbachs clearly rolled with any punches nature administered in 2004 (although by the time they harvested, abundant initial bunches had morphed into low yields), delivering Riesling of startling clarity and concentration that showcases its minerality and acidity. But in view of so much negative rot, they declined to attempt any nobly sweet selections. Wine Advocate.February, 2008

The 2004 Riesling Clos Ste-Hune smells deliciously, mysteriously and complexly of grapefruit, blood orange, sassafras, mirabelle distillate, licorice, truffle, musk, lily, and chalk. Creamy and much richer on the palate than its Frederic Emile counterpart, it displays no less sheer density, stony minerality, or penetration. The finish here is truly palate staining, and as multi-faceted as the aromas. It would probably be a shame to uncork a bottle (especially given the aftermarket prices I have been seeing on these wines!) for at least a couple of more years after it is released in 2009. David Schildknecht, Wine Advocate February 2008

Bit old and neutral on the nose. Quite sweet, loose and heavy. Has lost the plot a bit. Even slightly beery. A bit alcoholic. Disappointing. Jancis Robinson, jancisrobinson.com