2015 Oberhauser Brucke Grosses Gewachs

Helmut Donnhoff

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Average Score 96.17

The question why the Dönnhoffs' Grosses Gewächs from the Brücke is not as good as the Hermannshöhle will only cross the mind of avid students of point scores. It almost has it all: ripe, local fruit; cool, salty minerality; vibrant acidity; eau de vie purity; perfect sweet and sour balance; and yet, not quite the electric charge of the Hermannshöhle. Fasten your seat belts, I could be wrong. Aug 2016, www.jancisrobinson.com, Drink: 2016-2027
Dönnhoff first dry Riesling from their monopole Brücke (bridge) site in many years with a much more limited production than the other GGs. Tart blackcurrant and grapefruit notes dominate the nose suggesting that this is going to be quite a cool and tart wine, and indeed it is. Enormous drive and depth on the palate lead into a whiplash finish. Sep 2016, www.jamessuckling.com
There is only a single cask of the 2015 Brücke Grosses Gewächs, which is the only time that a GG has been produced from this vineyard by the Dönnhoff family. It is going to be fascinating as the years go by to see how this wine blossoms, as it shows even more filigree out of the blocks than the supremely elegant 2015 Hermannshöhle GG. The bouquet is superb, offering up scents of tart orange, pink grapefruit, complex slate minerality, wild yeasts, lemongrass, dried flowers and a topnote of citrus zest. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, crisp and very primary in personality, with a fine core, snappy acids and outstanding grip and focus on the very long and very pure finish. This will be a dynamite wine in the fullness of time and it will be interesting to see how high its price goes at the auctions in Bad Kreuznach in September, as it has never been made before! Mar 2016, www.viewfromthecellar.com, Drink: 2024-2065

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