2003 Oberhauser Brucke Eiswein

Weingut Donnhoff

95Average Score
flagNahe / Germany

For two years in a row, 2001 and 2002, Helmut Donnhoff earned perfect scores for the following effort, an amazing feat when one realizes I’ve only bestowed that honor on four young wines. While the 2003 Riesling Eiswein Oberhauser Brucke did not complete the hat-trick, it is exceptional. Deep aromas of honeyed botrytis can be found in its nuanced aromatics. Medium-bodied, unbelievably dense, concentrated, and long, this superb effort coats the palate with oily waves of black cherry jam, white chocolate, and molasses. Unlike most of the super-high-end sweet 2003s I tasted from Germany, this one did not abandon grace and balance in favor of syrupy sweetness. That being said, while it will most certainly last for many decades, its burnt sugar flavors lead me to recommend drinking it over the next 15 years. Bravo to Helmut Donnhoff for this magical line-up! Dec 2004, www.robertparker.com

Pierre Rovani    Score: 95/100

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