1995 Le Montrachet

Possessing a harnessed, super-tightly wound nose of sweet fruit and steely components, the '95 Montrachet is a compelling wine. Its powerful racy mouth, jam-packed with dense underlying fruit and minerals, is just waiting to explode to the surface. Lardiere's touch can be seen in the brilliant use of oak which provides a gorgeous spiciness to the wine. Full-bodied, complex, intense and long, this wine needs 7-9 years to blossom; it will age effortlessly for 20+ years. At this point, the wine is like a thoroughbred caged in the starting gates, impatiently waiting for the race to begin, its muscles trembling with anticipation for what is to come. Apr 1997, www.robertparker.com

Pierre Rovani    Score: 94-96/100