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2009 Kiedricher Grafenberg Trockenbeerenauslese

Robert Weil

95Average Score
flagRheingau / Germany
White

From selections over many days beginning in late October – at first, he insists, consisting more of healthy but shriveled berries, and only later of botrytized fruit – Weils 2009 Kiedricher Grafenberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese displays distilled-strength, Chartreuse-like herbal essences and floral perfume very recognizably an extension of the B.A. and gold capsule Auslese that preceded it. A smoky pungency points toward the advance of botrytis. Intense caramel, honey, and peach preserves as well as suggestions of maracuja and cedar join in on the palate, the entire array of flavors suffused with quickening fresh lemon and grapefruit. There is an exhilarating sense of tension here rather than the discord registered by the corresponding Eiswein and Turmberg T.B.A.; a clear signature of vineyard identity; and an ability to balance enormous sweetness, although it will take 15-20 years I suspect for transcendent harmony to emerge. Look for this to stand up to 50 or more years of cellaring and quite possibly ultimately emerge as a stunning monument to its vintage, site, and estate. Dec 2009, www.robertparker.com

David Schildknecht, Vinous    Score: 95/100

Hlvs-0 Immediate | 6 Marketplace£414.00
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