2004 Gruenspiel

From red marl and gravel above Ribeauville (“almost like a mixture of Burg and Engelgarten,” observes Deiss) and a doubtless historical-first blend of one-third each Riesling, Gewurztraminer and Pinot Noir, the 2004 Gruenspiel announces itself with high-toned herbal and smoky, meaty and overtly, pungently, alkaline mineral aromatics. Brown-spiced melon and herbs in the mouth retain ore-like, smoky, peppery, and chalky suggestions of minerality. This is almost too alkaline and chalky for its own good today, an impression of austerity only underscored by suggestions of pinot tannins, but Deiss warns that it is all about minerals and needs years to unfold. Certainly this grips with amazing tenacity. Feb 2008, www.robertparker.com

David Schildknecht, Vinous    Score: 90/100