2012 Gevrey Chambertin Petite Chapelle


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Average Score 93.0

The 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Petite Chapelle does not undergo any pigeage so that Arnaud can maintain the freshness of its clay soils. It has a perfumed, floral bouquet with raspberry preserve, fresh strawberries and minerals that are well defined, a touch of burnt toast emerging with aeration. The palate is firm in the mouth, more reserved and austere, but with a lovely, composed stony finish that is very precise. This is Rossignol-Trapet’s more intellectual premier cru. ||I remember visiting Domaine Rossignol-Trapet on my very first foray into Burgundy in 1997 and having followed their wines closely ever since, it was good to return, albeit briefly, to taste through their 2012s. During that period, the biggest change has been David and Nicolas Rossignol’s conversion to biodynamics in 2004, a process that was being trialed during that first visit. They told me that they have fine-tuned their vinification in accordance, for example, using less pigeage than they once did, and this has resulted in a finer, more nuanced set of wines in recent years. Here, the harvest commenced on 27 September and finished on 4 October. Hail reduced their Beaune vineyards’ production by around 20% and their older vines suffered millerandage, though they found that the premier crus held up fine. I have always felt that their wines are a little under-rated by cognoscenti. While over the road, Denis Bachelet has perhaps unintentionally propagated a zealous, almost feverish following for his wines, Rossignol-Trapet perhaps has a more commercial bent and that used to be reflected in their good, but rarely great wines. Yet in the last three or vintages, so they have fine-tuned their style: ratcheted up a few levels towards, if not equal to that of Denis Bachelet and the village’s top tier of producers. Time to give these fine wines another look if you have not done so recently., 2013

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