1998 Dom Perignon P2

Still a hint of that green tint and this is as bright as the 04, though the colour seems a little deeper. A very fine mousse again. Much richer nose – toasted brioche with a hint of smoke and a creamy mushroom edge. And this follows in the mouth – a lovely, forward, broad and open mouth. A touch of toffee? Gorgeous – this is at the height of the back-flip, the jack-knife of the dive. This has fanned out: broad and open yet remains delicate and very finely-knit. If the 04 has a hint of Chablis about it then this is more Meursault. And goes on and on again. Very good.

FINE+RARE  (June 2014)