2007 Clos de Tart

Sweetly perfumed with flowers and with black fruit candies that render a confectionary impression on the palate (and Sylvain Pitiot did not demur from my description: “bonbon-like”), the 2007 Clos de Tart manages to harmoniously integrate vanilla, caramel, and resin from new wood. Even more than in the corresponding 2008, fresh juiciness of cassis and black raspberry and a saliva-stimulating salinity lend this lift and enticement so that it doesn’t become another too-familiar modern-day exercise in mere dark berry jam on a new oaken shingle. Sandalwood and black tea contribute further interest. Judgments will differ depending on the degree to which one is attracted by the style of this polished and persistent confection of Pinot Noir, but it certainly reflects what Pitiot describes as “my intention – and my taste – (namely) always to harvest just before the limiting point of over-ripeness and excess is reached.” I would anticipate this showcasing its virtues and Pitiot’s ideal over the next 7-10 years, and doubt that the 2008 will ever be able to compensate for its relatively less charm, seductiveness, or seamlessness. Jun 2010, www.robertparker.com

David Schildknecht    Score: 93/100