2005 Chapelle Chambertin

Dugat; Claude

93Average Score
flagBurgundy / France

From old vines he farms but does not own comes Dugat’s 2005 Chapelle-Chambertin, displaying sweetly-ripe, lightly-cooked cherry fruit with overtones of cranberry and orange zest as well as resin and vanilla from the barrel. Rich and generous as well as sweetly spicy in the mouth, it offers a generosity of fruit to fit its creamy texture and is strikingly at odds with the severe and mineral-dominated concentration of this year’s Griotte. The ferrous soils seem to encourage spiciness and a generous, sappy cast to the fruit. This does not display quite the same penetration or concentration as the Griotte. I suppose the Chapelle has more charm as well as generosity, but I wonder whether time will diminish the effects of its having failed while in barrel to completely resist the new wood.||Known for his low yields and intensely concentrated Pinots (all but the Bourgogne raised in new barrels), Claude Dugat – with the increasing involvement of his son Bertrand – has rendered a formidable 2005 collection that makes no concessions to early charm. Wine Advocate.April, 2007

David Schildknecht    Score: 93/100

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