The 2014 Barolo Riserva Bussia Vigna Colonnello is an eccentric wine. Soaring floral and savory nuances give the 2014 an incredibly distinctive upper register. Deceptive in its mid-weight structure, the 2014 nevertheless has plenty of depth as well as freshness. Appreciating it requires a palate reset, as vinificaton with whole clusters (50%) is not common in Barolo. The 2014 is an incredibly intriguing wine, but it needs to really be taken on its own terms because it is undeniably quirky. A few hours of aeration works wonders in helping the wine come together and assimilate the strong stem character that is so pronounced upon first opening.
Antonio Galloni, Vinous (October 2020) Score: 94/100 Drink 2024-2034
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