Saint-Emilion’s classification is in crisis – embroiled in court cases and controversy. But why? And does it matter? Sophie Thorpe investigates Saint-Emilion has been hitting the headlines. And not in the way it would like to. In July, just after the region’s châteaux submitted applications for the 2022 classification, two of the region’s four Premier Cru Classé A estates – ...

Investigating rifts and rivalry in the region’s classification system

Class act: Saint-Emilion

When the oldest working distillery in Scotland found a new owner in 2019, many stood back and speculated on how its fortunes might change. Holly Motion speaks to the team about how a new approach has been a barnstorming success “In more recent times The Glenturret has not been a brand name that is well known in whisky.” While few might refute ...

How questioning the fundamentals has spelled success for this Highland distillery

The Glenturret: back to basics

After countless headlines prophesying the end of the gin boom, the category's growth has finally slowed. Holly Motion talks to two innovators who, through reimagining the distillation process, have produced gins that should stand the test of time The Gin Renaissance, which kickstarted in 1999, showed the world that gin could be more than something that’s mixed with an insipid ...

The two mavericks rectifying gin's biggest problem

After the craze: reinventing gin

Few wine producers are as lauded as Ch. Latour. Ahead of the release of their 2005, Sophie Thorpe attempts to look behind the curtain at the legendary First Growth estate Ch. Latour doesn’t need PR. The Pauillac estate, one of Bordeaux’s five hallowed First Growths, is rightfully revered. But browse Google and there’s an almost eerie absence of stories about ...

Why the Pauillac First Growth doesn’t need PR

Ch. Latour: the power of silence

September sees the latest vintages from some of the world’s top estates released via La Place de Bordeaux. Ahead of the 2021 releases, we run through the vintages and properties that you’ll want on your radar South America’s finest Argentina and Chile have rapidly become hotspots for fine wine. Offering high-altitude sites with glorious sunshine, and varied soils, it’s no ...

The releases you’ll want on your radar

The September Series: the 2021 edition unpacked

Hot and dry, 2020’s conditions don’t seem to lay the ground for classical, pinpoint Chablis – yet somehow the wines are just that. We spoke to some of the region’s top producers about the vintage’s unexpected outcome With the recent fruitful set of vintages from practically all the classic French regions, you would be forgiven for thinking one is spoilt ...

Chablis’s top producers on the unexpected classicism of 2020

Chablis 2020: a mineral, saline sucker punch of a vintage

Since it stormed onto the whiskey scene in 2015, WhistlePig has rarely been out of the headlines. Success, tragedy and villainy have all befallen the zero-generation distillery in its short history. Holly Motion talks to the bright new light at the Vermont-based innovator The smallest event can set us on our path. A chance encounter, a favourite book narrated to ...

How the team is writing its own story while honouring Dave Pickerell’s legacy

WhistlePig: behind the headlines

Producing Sauternes is a noble venture – one that often brings more risks than rewards. Gavin Smith talks to three of the region’s leading producers about the perils of crafting the world’s most sought-after sweet wines – and why it’s worth it Sauternes might be the most distinctive wine on the planet. Its combination of power, unctuosity and aromatic complexity ...

The perils of crafting the world’s most sought-after sweet wine

Sauternes: the great sacrifice

Climate change poses a serious threat to wine-growers around the world. Bordeaux has just allowed the use of new grape varieties to help its producers cope with the increasingly hot, dry conditions – but what does this mean for the region’s identity? We talk to the region’s top winemakers about the future of the Bordeaux blend From January 2021, the ...

We ask Cheval Blanc, Margaux, Lafleur, Lafite, Ducru-Beaucaillou and more

Is climate change threatening the Bordeaux blend?

Rum is one of the most misunderstood spirits categories. Burdened with less-than-premium associations of pirates and insipid cocktails, it’s taken a long time for the authentic, remarkable liquid to break through the malaise Rum has been positioned as the next big thing. The one to watch. The spirits category to steal market share from Scotch whisky and the sure-bet to ...

How the often misunderstood spirit has become a serious threat

The evolution of rum

Rum isn’t regulated. Rum is either dark or white. It all comes from the Caribbean. It’s nowhere near as high quality as Scotch. These are just some of the misconceptions that hang around the category like a millstone. Holly Motion speaks to some of the loudest voices in the fight to be heard amongst all the mistruths Of all the ...

How sugarcane spirits mistruths are finally coming unstuck

Rum: the sticky issues

The concept of terroir in spirits is a comparatively new one. And, in the case of rum, takes on a very different meaning to wine. Holly Motion explores In the conversation about terroir in spirits, rum arguably has a stronger position than most. There are numerous cane-to-bottle rums and many more with a credible claim to the dictionary definition of ...

Exploring what terroir means in the rum world

The raw deal

Bodegas Roda has always done things a bit differently in Rioja. Their prestige cuvée Cirsion is a perfect example, proving the top wines of the region don’t have to be dominated by oak Bodegas Roda has always strived to be a modern force in Rioja – not dictated by tradition and the region’s strict requirements when it comes to ageing. ...

How Bodegas Roda’s Cirsion has changed the Rioja recipe

Finding Tempranillo’s true potential

After years of painstaking renovation and restoration, the £30 million Ardross project is about to take off. Founder Barthélémy Brosseau tells Holly Motion all about the contrarian Northern Highlands distillery’s transformation and why this team is proud to be different Ardross is a new Scotch whisky distillery. You’d be forgiven for rolling your eyes about now. Over the past few years ...

The effervescent founder on why his distillery is proud to be different

Ardross: the butterfly effect

Having taken over from her late father, Denis Durantou, Noëmie Durantou Reilhac of Ch. l’Eglise-Clinet tells Sophie Thorpe how the vines were a constant in an emotionally wrought year – and what lies ahead for the vigneron family  The 2020 vintage was challenging for most vignerons. But for the Durantou family, it was a year that demanded everything of them. Denis Durantou – patriarch and leading light of Pomerol – passed away on 12th May. For many people, their day-job would be ...

How the vines have got her through a challenging year at Ch. l’Eglise Clinet

The constant farmer: Noëmie Durantou Reilhac

Meursault-based Domaine Roulot is one of the finest estates in the Côte de Beaune, with a long and storied tradition of winemaking. But it’s not just grapes that cross the threshold at this domaine. Owner and winemaker Jean-Marc tells us about the family’s fruit-based spirits – and how they’ve influenced his winemaking When Jean-Marc Roulot wandered through the family estate’s ...

The famous Meursault vigneron on his family’s other project

A secret still: Domaine Roulot

David Stewart MBE is the longest-serving Malt Master. Kelsey McKechnie is the youngest female Malt Master Apprentice. Holly Motion speaks to the two Balvenie record-breakers about passing the baton, the weight of a legacy, and what it really means to lay down stocks for the next generation It is hard to imagine The Balvenie without David Stewart MBE and vice ...

The current and future Malt Master on upholding tradition while driving innovation

The Balvenie: the making of a master

Neal Martin – now of Vinous, previously the Wine Advocate – is one of the world’s leading wine writers. Sophie Thorpe talks to the determinedly off-beat critic about his path into wine and why there’s much more to life than brilliant bottles Quiet, even subdued, cautious, the Neal Martin on my screen is quite different to the garrulous character I’d imagined from his writing. On the page (or more often these days, the screen), Martin pokes ...

The leading wine critic on why his offbeat style is key to his success

Neal Martin: striking a chord

Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite)’s Jean-Sébastien Philippe speaks to Gavin Smith
about the benefits of collaboration amongst its châteaux – Lafite, L’Evangile, Rieussec and Duhart-Milon For many, the past 12 months meant working in isolation and big plans were shelved. At
Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite), it was an extremely proactive year of change. These changes have resulted in the strongest line ...

The dynamism, tenacity and collaboration required to make wines of the utmost precision

Domaines Barons de Rothschild: a year of innovation

A region where producers were once known for using 200% new oak, Bordeaux has long championed the barrique. But at a time when winemakers around the world are looking to alternatives for ageing wine, we talk to a handful of Bordeaux’s leading names, asking whether their love affair with the barrique is over  In some parts of the wine industry, oak ...

We talk to Bordeaux’s leading producers about whether the barrique has fallen from favour

Is Bordeaux over oak?

As he approaches his 50th year in the industry, Colin Scott tells Holly Motion about the allure of well-aged whisky and plundering The Last Drop’s remarkable spirits inventory  Colin Scott should be one year into his retirement. After 47 years at Chivas Brothers, 31 of which were spent as the Master Blender, he should be enjoying a well-earned rest. Instead, the ebullient Scott is lighting up the screens of the FINE+RARE team as he talks ...

How a well-aged whisky lured Colin Scott out of retirement

The bewitching blend

You don’t need us to tell you that the First Growths made good wine in 2020 – but there’s plenty of brilliant value to be found beyond the grandest names. Here we’ve picked 10 of the more modest wines from our tastings so far that are firmly on our wish-list  2020 Ch. Tour Saint-Christophe, Saint-Emilion  There is lovely restraint to Tour Saint-Christophe this year, ...

Ten of the best-value wines of the vintage en primeur

Bordeaux 2020: top-value buys

Bordeaux produced some stunning wines in 2020. While we haven’t yet tasted everything – notably Chx Mouton and Lafite Rothschild – here’s our pick of our 10 favourites so far, wines that have really shone in this remarkable vintage 2020 Calon Ségur, Saint-Estèphe This has a lovely interplay of earthy, mineral notes with a touch of smokiness, fresh leather and ...

The top 10 wines from our team’s tastings so far

Bordeaux 2020: our favourites

Bordeaux 2020 was a vigneron’s vintage, a year in which strategic choices were key to success. Here we delve into how each of the main appellations on both the Left and Right Banks fared in this remarkable year. Talking to the Bordelais vignerons, there’s a recurring sense of relief and elation about the 2020 vintage. These fantastic wines don’t speak of the challenges that tested ...

A commune-by-commune guide to the vintage 

Bordeaux 2020: breaking it down

The 2020 vintage in Bordeaux was not easy – but the resulting wines are undeniably very good. After several weeks’ tasting and talking extensively, we give an overview of the eventful year and the impressive wines it produced  Talking to producers about the 2020 vintage in Bordeaux, their excitement is palpable. Dramatic gesticulation and unabashed grins made for little modesty, but there is also a certain amount of relief. This was not an easy season for the region’s vignerons – ...

Your one-stop guide to the vintage

Bordeaux 2020: vintage overview

After three decades in the whisky industry Tomatin’s Graham Eunson is more energised than ever. He tells Holly Motion why his latest role is the best yet There’s little Graham Eunson hasn’t seen in his 30 years in the Scotch whisky industry. From pushing barrels at Scapa straight out of school to managing one of the biggest names, the Orcadian ...

Tomatin’s Distillery Operations Director on the pace, and people, that keep him in the industry

Graham Eunson: a life in whisky

The Bordeaux châteaux – and the world’s wine lovers – are waiting for the critics to give their verdict on the 2020 vintage. We’ll be adding to this page as their reports are released – offering a summary of what each of these prestigious palates are saying about the vintage and the wines they rated most highly James Suckling First ...

Our round-up of what the world’s top tasters are saying about the vintage

Bordeaux 2020: what the critics are saying

It’s 20 years since Bibi Graetz created Colore, one of Italy’s top wines. To mark the occasion, Gavin Smith tasted through 14 vintages – exploring the evolution of this rare Tuscan red, and its maker  Getting to taste a vertical of any one wine is undoubtedly the best way to understand it. It provides that rare opportunity to see how well ...

Tracing the evolution of this rare Tuscan red – and its maker

A story in Sangiovese: two decades of Colore

Since David Suire’s arrival in 2015, Château Laroque has become one of Saint-Emilion’s most talked-about estates. We caught up with the man behind the modest property’s soaring reputation (and scores) to find out more The skyline of the medieval village of Saint-Emilion is dominated by the spire of its 12th century monolithic church. Hewn from the limestone rock that imbues its wines with their shape and sinew, the 68-metre high ...

How David Suire is transforming this Saint-Emilion estate

Carving a new future at Laroque

The 2018 and 2019 vintages might be tough acts to follow, but Bordeaux 2020 seems to be more than up to the job. We spoke to producers about the year’s extreme conditions – and the stunning results it produced Bordeaux 2020 is the third in a trilogy of outstanding vintages for the region – but, talking to producers, one thing ...

The extraordinary conditions that shaped the vintage

Bordeaux 2020: a tale of two halves

For many, the words “American whiskey” conjure up images of Kentucky, Bourbon and Rye. Two equally innovative and candid producers tell Holly Motion why the Pacific Northwest is perfectly primed to create sensational American single malts The Pacific Northwest is the birthplace of some of the greatest innovations of the past 40 years. Microsoft, Amazon and Starbucks are just some of the multi-billion-dollar enterprises to come from the region with its spectacular mountainous ...

Two Pacific Northwest producers on the limitless potential of American single malts

A new flavour frontier

Oak has played a vital role in the changing history of fine wine. Gavin Smith spoke to Max Gigandet – Managing Director of leading Burgundy cooper François Frères – to explore the power of a good barrel and why oak isn’t going anywhere Oak barrels have been used in winemaking for thousands of years. While initially their purpose was simply ...

Exploring the power of a good barrel

Finding the balance: the art of the cooper

As Château Langoa Barton marks its 200th anniversary, Sophie Thorpe caught up with Damien Barton-Sartorius – the 10th generation of the Barton family to run the estate – about tradition, terroir and why Bordeaux remains the most exciting wine region in the world  Think of Bordeaux, and you probably don’t think of skateboarding and denim shirts. Damien Barton-Sartorius, however – Director of Château Langoa and Léoville Barton – manages ...

Talking terroir and tradition with Damien Barton-Sartorius, Director of Langoa and Léoville Barton

Keeping up with the Bartons

From traditional single malt Scotch to the weird-and-wonderful and everything in between, there’s every chance an independent bottler had a hand in bringing this liquid to your lips. Holly Motion spoke to four bottlers about the category’s rich history and the important role they play in the spirits world Dalmore, Mortlach and Macallan fetch tens of thousands of pounds at auction today – but they likely wouldn’t exist if it wasn’t for an independent bottler. In times of great economic hardship, Gordon ...

Four spirits curators on their quest for the rare and remarkable

Message in a bottle

Each spring, the wine trade’s eyes turn to Bordeaux for en primeur. But – once more – the campaign looks to be shackled by Covid-19. Here, we look ahead, considering how we’ll be tasting Bordeaux 2020  A year after we went into lockdown, it’s hard to believe we’re still here. At the start of 2020, we were blissfully ignorant about facemasks, hand sanitiser and Zoom – but in a year the world has changed. And the wine ...

Tasting en primeur in the Covid era  

Bordeaux 2020: encore, mon ami 

Port is much more than just wine. “Brandy” or aguardente makes up 20% of every bottle – and some argue that a shift in the quality of this spirit is key to the wines’ superiority in the last two decades. Sophie Thorpe spoke to the region’s leading producers to find out more about the firewater that defines the Douro’s age-old fortified wines  Looking across the dramatic ...

The firewater that defines the Douro’s age-old fortified wines 

A spirited debate: the tale of Port’s 20%

With the release of 2018 Ornellaia on the horizon, we tell you everything you need to know about the estate – and why it’s become such an icon of the Italian fine wine scene   What is Ornellaia?  Ornellaia is one of Italy’s most respected wineries, based in the Tuscan foothills of Bolgheri. Its top wine – simply titled Ornellaia – is a Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot, first produced in ...

What you really need to know about the Super Tuscan

Ornellaia: a cheat sheet

With two single malts about to launch and a study at long last proving terroir in whisky exists, Waterford CEO Mark Reynier should be cock-a-hoop. Holly Motion finds out why that isn’t the case   Mark Reynier is angry. After decades of shouting into the wind, his landmark Terroir Project – which scientifically proves the existence of terroir in whisky – has landed, and largely been derided or ignored by his peers.   ...

The quest for traceability in whisky is far from over

Mark Reynier uncensored

Ahead of St George’s Day – the day on which Port houses traditionally declare a vintage – we caught up with the Douro Valley’s leading producers to find out which vintage Ports you should be uncorking now  Quality in the Douro Valley has arguably never been higher – with a run of recent vintages universally declared (2011, 2016, 2017). The 2018 vintage was declared by some ...

The Douro’s leading producers advise on the wines to uncork – and those to keep

Port vintages to drink now

Age-worthy yet terroir transparent, Barolo is a fascinating region. Its complex, varied terroir often draws comparisons with Burgundy. Here we delve into “the king of wines and wine of kings” – from its aristocratic beginnings to the villages, vineyards and producers to look out for Barolo remains the most important region in the world for Nebbiolo. This variety is one ...

From the region’s origins to its most famous vineyards

Your definitive guide to Barolo

The 2019 vintage is significant at Domaine des Lambrays not just for its exceptional quality, but as the first full year under new winemaker Jacques Devauges. Late last year we visited the property to find out more  Humble yet with undeniable ambition, Jacques Devauges arrived at Domaine des Lambrays in March 2019 and has wasted no time in making small but significant adjustments at the estate. His appointment was the most recent in a flurry ...

The first full vintage under new winemaker Jacques Devauges 

Changing of the guard at Domaine des Lambrays

A new month brings another flurry of fine wine and spirits releases. While Bordeaux en primeur is on the horizon, March sees new vintages from Latour and the Grandes Marques, as well as releases from Tuscany, Burgundy and Ireland’s most exciting distillery: here’s our pick of the bunch The latest from Latour In the wake of last week’s launch of ...

The wines and spirits to have on your radar this month

What to look out for this March

As demand for single malt whisky continues to soar, the number of distilleries – big and small – preparing to fling open their doors increases at a bullish rate. Holly Motion talks to a few of the industry’s newest names to see if everything is as rosy as it seems It’s no secret that Scotch whisky is dominated by two giants ...

The risks and rewards of building a Scotch whisky distillery

Distilling dreams

In amongst the 18th century buildings and vineyards at Castello di Ama, you’ll discover striking modern sculpture. Disruptive and disarming, the art and wine of this Chianti Classico estate is at the cutting edge. Sophie Thorpe spoke to CEO Lorenza Sebasti and winemaker Marco Pallanti to find out more  The constant tension in wine is between art and science; the ...

Meeting the duo behind the cutting-edge Chianti Classico estate

Art and soul: Castello di Ama

Ahead of the release of the latest vintage from Promontory, owner Will Harlan took us on a virtual tour of this remarkable property tucked out of sight in the Napa Valley As the drone camera takes us up over the trees, you can see how dense the forest is around Promontory’s vineyards in the western hills of Napa’s Oakville district. ...

Exploring the remarkable property with owner Will Harlan

  Uncovering Oakville’s hidden valley: Promontory

In a world filled with big brands, Clase Azul is a tequila producer looking to do things differently. Holly Motion finds out why the artisan brand is determined for tradition to trump trends It is little wonder there has been a veritable tequila gold rush, after celebrity-backed brands have sold in excess of $1bn, and the category continued to report double-digit growth during a global pandemic. This growth wasn’t just ...

The tequila producer that’s standing up for the region’s traditions

Authentic agave: Clase Azul

There is such domestic demand for the wines of Domaine Donatsch that they are rarely seen outside Switzerland. Tucked in amongst the Alps, this property makes world-class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay that gives Burgundy a run for its money. Gavin Smith spoke to winemaker and owner Martin Donatsch about the extraordinary site and life on the slopes  Few people have ...

The man making great Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in the Swiss Alps

The high life: Martin Donatsch

With the release of the 2017 Barolos fast approaching, Gavin Smith spoke to some of the region’s leading producers – Giovanni Angeli from Massolino, Giuseppe Vaira from Vajra, Emanuele Baldi from Prunotto and Ferruccio Grimaldi – about the vintage, its extreme conditions and the surprising results The world’s fine wine regions famously exist where the climate is just warm enough ...

Beyond all expectation – a year that defies logic

Barolo 2017: vintage report

Master distillers have been maturing whisky in oak barrels for centuries. While it is generally accepted that “the cask is king” and “the wood makes the whisky”, cask finishing – or second maturation – is a relatively new fashion. Here we look at what it is and why it matters  Maturation, distillation and the base grain combine to give whisky its character. But – while it only takes a week from ...

Digging into the double maturation of whisky

What is cask finishing?

Prunotto was one of the first Barolo estates to produce a single-vineyard “Cru” wine – kickstarting a trend that has transformed the region. We spoke to Emanuele Baldi to find out what inspired the estate Prunotto’s Emanuele Baldi has an encyclopedic knowledge of Barolo. Listening to his stories about the last century in the region is fascinating, providing context to how and why Barolo and the surrounding Piedmontese regions have developed as they have. Perhaps one of ...

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