Oak has played a vital role in the changing history of fine wine. Gavin Smith spoke to Max Gigandet – Managing Director of leading Burgundy cooper François Frères – to explore the power of a good barrel and why oak isn’t going anywhere Oak barrels have been used in winemaking for thousands of years. While initially their purpose was simply ...

Exploring the power of a good barrel

Finding the balance: the art of the cooper

As Château Langoa Barton marks its 200th anniversary, Sophie Thorpe caught up with Damien Barton-Sartorius – the 10th generation of the Barton family to run the estate – about tradition, terroir and why Bordeaux remains the most exciting wine region in the world  Think of Bordeaux, and you probably don’t think of skateboarding and denim shirts. Damien Barton-Sartorius, however – Director of Château Langoa and Léoville Barton – manages ...

Talking terroir and tradition with Damien Barton-Sartorius, Director of Langoa and Léoville Barton

Keeping up with the Bartons

From traditional single malt Scotch to the weird-and-wonderful and everything in between, there’s every chance an independent bottler had a hand in bringing this liquid to your lips. Holly Motion spoke to four bottlers about the category’s rich history and the important role they play in the spirits world Dalmore, Mortlach and Macallan fetch tens of thousands of pounds at auction today – but they likely wouldn’t exist if it wasn’t for an independent bottler. In times of great economic hardship, Gordon ...

Four spirits curators on their quest for the rare and remarkable

Message in a bottle

Each spring, the wine trade’s eyes turn to Bordeaux for en primeur. But – once more – the campaign looks to be shackled by Covid-19. Here, we look ahead, considering how we’ll be tasting Bordeaux 2020  A year after we went into lockdown, it’s hard to believe we’re still here. At the start of 2020, we were blissfully ignorant about facemasks, hand sanitiser and Zoom – but in a year the world has changed. And the wine ...

Tasting en primeur in the Covid era  

Bordeaux 2020: encore, mon ami 

Port is much more than just wine. “Brandy” or aguardente makes up 20% of every bottle – and some argue that a shift in the quality of this spirit is key to the wines’ superiority in the last two decades. Sophie Thorpe spoke to the region’s leading producers to find out more about the firewater that defines the Douro’s age-old fortified wines  Looking across the dramatic ...

The firewater that defines the Douro’s age-old fortified wines 

A spirited debate: the tale of Port’s 20%

With the release of 2018 Ornellaia on the horizon, we tell you everything you need to know about the estate – and why it’s become such an icon of the Italian fine wine scene   What is Ornellaia?  Ornellaia is one of Italy’s most respected wineries, based in the Tuscan foothills of Bolgheri. Its top wine – simply titled Ornellaia – is a Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot, first produced in ...

What you really need to know about the Super Tuscan

Ornellaia: a cheat sheet

With two single malts about to launch and a study at long last proving terroir in whisky exists, Waterford CEO Mark Reynier should be cock-a-hoop. Holly Motion finds out why that isn’t the case   Mark Reynier is angry. After decades of shouting into the wind, his landmark Terroir Project – which scientifically proves the existence of terroir in whisky – has landed, and largely been derided or ignored by his peers.   ...

The quest for traceability in whisky is far from over

Mark Reynier uncensored

Ahead of St George’s Day – the day on which Port houses traditionally declare a vintage – we caught up with the Douro Valley’s leading producers to find out which vintage Ports you should be uncorking now  Quality in the Douro Valley has arguably never been higher – with a run of recent vintages universally declared (2011, 2016, 2017). The 2018 vintage was declared by some ...

The Douro’s leading producers advise on the wines to uncork – and those to keep

Port vintages to drink now

Age-worthy yet terroir transparent, Barolo is a fascinating region. Its complex, varied terroir often draws comparisons with Burgundy. Here we delve into “the king of wines and wine of kings” – from its aristocratic beginnings to the villages, vineyards and producers to look out for Barolo remains the most important region in the world for Nebbiolo. This variety is one ...

From the region’s origins to its most famous vineyards

Your definitive guide to Barolo

The 2019 vintage is significant at Domaine des Lambrays not just for its exceptional quality, but as the first full year under new winemaker Jacques Devauges. Late last year we visited the property to find out more  Humble yet with undeniable ambition, Jacques Devauges arrived at Domaine des Lambrays in March 2019 and has wasted no time in making small but significant adjustments at the estate. His appointment was the most recent in a flurry ...

The first full vintage under new winemaker Jacques Devauges 

Changing of the guard at Domaine des Lambrays

A new month brings another flurry of fine wine and spirits releases. While Bordeaux en primeur is on the horizon, March sees new vintages from Latour and the Grandes Marques, as well as releases from Tuscany, Burgundy and Ireland’s most exciting distillery: here’s our pick of the bunch The latest from Latour In the wake of last week’s launch of ...

The wines and spirits to have on your radar this month

What to look out for this March

As demand for single malt whisky continues to soar, the number of distilleries – big and small – preparing to fling open their doors increases at a bullish rate. Holly Motion talks to a few of the industry’s newest names to see if everything is as rosy as it seems It’s no secret that Scotch whisky is dominated by two giants ...

The risks and rewards of building a Scotch whisky distillery

Distilling dreams

In amongst the 18th century buildings and vineyards at Castello di Ama, you’ll discover striking modern sculpture. Disruptive and disarming, the art and wine of this Chianti Classico estate is at the cutting edge. Sophie Thorpe spoke to CEO Lorenza Sebasti and winemaker Marco Pallanti to find out more  The constant tension in wine is between art and science; the ...

Meeting the duo behind the cutting-edge Chianti Classico estate

Art and soul: Castello di Ama

Ahead of the release of the latest vintage from Promontory, owner Will Harlan took us on a virtual tour of this remarkable property tucked out of sight in the Napa Valley As the drone camera takes us up over the trees, you can see how dense the forest is around Promontory’s vineyards in the western hills of Napa’s Oakville district. ...

Exploring the remarkable property with owner Will Harlan

  Uncovering Oakville’s hidden valley: Promontory

In a world filled with big brands, Clase Azul is a tequila producer looking to do things differently. Holly Motion finds out why the artisan brand is determined for tradition to trump trends It is little wonder there has been a veritable tequila gold rush, after celebrity-backed brands have sold in excess of $1bn, and the category continued to report double-digit growth during a global pandemic. This growth wasn’t just ...

The tequila producer that’s standing up for the region’s traditions

Authentic agave: Clase Azul

There is such domestic demand for the wines of Domaine Donatsch that they are rarely seen outside Switzerland. Tucked in amongst the Alps, this property makes world-class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay that gives Burgundy a run for its money. Gavin Smith spoke to winemaker and owner Martin Donatsch about the extraordinary site and life on the slopes  Few people have ...

The man making great Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in the Swiss Alps

The high life: Martin Donatsch

With the release of the 2017 Barolos fast approaching, Gavin Smith spoke to some of the region’s leading producers – Giovanni Angeli from Massolino, Giuseppe Vaira from Vajra, Emanuele Baldi from Prunotto and Ferruccio Grimaldi – about the vintage, its extreme conditions and the surprising results The world’s fine wine regions famously exist where the climate is just warm enough ...

Beyond all expectation – a year that defies logic

Barolo 2017: vintage report

Master distillers have been maturing whisky in oak barrels for centuries. While it is generally accepted that “the cask is king” and “the wood makes the whisky”, cask finishing – or second maturation – is a relatively new fashion. Here we look at what it is and why it matters  Maturation, distillation and the base grain combine to give whisky its character. But – while it only takes a week from ...

Digging into the double maturation of whisky

What is cask finishing?

Prunotto was one of the first Barolo estates to produce a single-vineyard “Cru” wine – kickstarting a trend that has transformed the region. We spoke to Emanuele Baldi to find out what inspired the estate Prunotto’s Emanuele Baldi has an encyclopedic knowledge of Barolo. Listening to his stories about the last century in the region is fascinating, providing context to how and why Barolo and the surrounding Piedmontese regions have developed as they have. Perhaps one of ...

The trend that transformed Barolo

The birth of Barolo’s Crus

A varied palette of releases in February will satisfy even the most esoteric of collectors. From some of the biggest releases of the year from Leroy and Domaine d’Auvenay to lesser-known beauties from Switzerland, these are wines and spirits you won’t want to miss Valpolicella from maestro Romano dal Forno   February sees the annual release from Valpolicella’s pioneering Dal Forno estate. The sad news is there will be no new Amarone ...

What to look out for this February

Over the last two decades, Emmanuel Cruse has transformed Château d’Issan. We caught up with Cruse to taste through key vintages from the Margaux Classed Growth, tracing its evolution  Château d’Issan might not be one of Bordeaux’s most famous addresses – but the Margaux Third Growth has seen huge investment since Emmanuel Cruse arrived in 1998, and it’s a name on the rise. Jane Anson – Decanter’s Bordeaux correspondent and ...

Tracing the Margaux Classed Growth’s evolution

Château d’Issan vertical

There’s been a buzz about the cult Montalcino estate Cerbaiona since it changed hands in 2015. Ahead of the release of the 2016 Brunello – the first under Matthew Fioretti’s ownership – Gavin Smith caught up with Fioretti to find out more about how and why he’s transforming the property Cerbaiona is widely recognised as one of the top estates ...

We talk to the man determined to modernise this cult Montalcino property

Cerbaiona: a new era

The world’s leading wine critics have spoken, and their verdict on Burgundy 2019 is in. No one was short of something to say about the fascinating year. Here, we round-up what they said about the vintage Wine Advocate – William Kelley 
There was such demand for Kelley’s official report on the vintage that the Wine Advocate site momentarily crashed under ...

What the leading wine critics are saying about the vintage

Burgundy 2019: the critics' verdict

Each month, we ask a handful of our team to pick a wine or spirit they’ve tasted recently – a bottle that surprised, delighted or merely lived up to high expectations. Here’s what they chose 2005 Charmes-Chambertin, Grand Cru, Dennis Bachelet “Denis Bachelet’s wines are part of our family history, and we have always followed the domaine. My family has ...

What our team is drinking

In the glass

The spirits market has seen a decade of astounding performance – but what is happening, and what should you be looking to buy?  The spirits market is booming. In October 2019, a bottle of 1926 Macallan FINE+RARE 60-Year-Old became the most expensive bottle (of either wine or spirits) ever sold at auction in the world, going for £1.5 million ...

We take a closer look at the spirits market

In high spirits

The 2019 vintage has produced some stunning wines across France. As with Bordeaux and Burgundy, it has proven to be an excellent year for the Rhône – one in a series of stunning “nines” (joining the ranks of 1979, ’89, ’99 and 2009). We talk to some of the region’s leading producers to find out more about the vintage The ...

An excellent year that produced wines of concentration and balance


Rhône 2019: vintage report

Richard “the Nose” Paterson – the Master Blender behind Dalmore – has been crafting fine single malt Scotch for Whyte & Mackay for half a century. But now he’s launching a new project, Wolfcraig – a Highland distillery that has the industry awhirl. We caught up with the larger-than-life character to find out more “Right, Richard, what do you think ...

We talk to Dalmore’s Master Blender about his new project

On the nose: Richard Paterson

Premature oxidation has plagued the modern era of white Burgundy – but could it be a thing of the past? Recent research by Olivier Lamy – the experimental winemaker at the helm of Domaine Hubert Lamy – could hold the key to solving the problem. We caught up with him to find out more  When visiting the cellars of Domaine ...

Could premature oxidation be a thing of the past?

Solving the premox problem: Olivier Lamy

Burgundy continues to dominate as we kick off the New Year, but this month will also see a host of new releases from the Rhône, Tuscany, Spain and a special cask offering: here’s our pick of the bunch Burgundy  January tends to be dominated by the major new releases from Burgundy. With rave reviews from the critics, combined with the reduction in volumes, demand for the 2019s is set to be high. This month will see major releases from the likes ...

What to look out for this January

In our quest to source the finest wines and spirits from around the world, we sample some astonishing bottles. We asked a handful of our team to highlight the best thing they tasted this year – from 1926 Leroy to a special 60-year-old Glenfarclas 
 2012 Barolo, Vigna Rocchette, Cavalier Lorenzo Accomasso  “Lorenzo Accomasso is a true ’cavalier’, capable of carrying ...

The finest wines and spirits we tasted in 2020

The year’s best bottles


 This year saw us publish over 120 articles. From producer interviews and region guides to vintage reports, here are the five pieces that proved most popular Musar: a year-by-year vintage guide This summer we delved into the history of Chateau Musar – the iconic winery that has long proven the potential of Lebanese terroir. As well as offering a ...

The most popular articles we published

The five most read features in 2020

Rich, complex and deeply rewarding, at its best Port is one of the most age-worthy styles of wine produced today. Here’s a quick guide to the fortified wine – from the various styles made to the best vintages to buy What is Port? Port is a fortified wine made in the Douro Valley in Portugal. Traditionally the wines were shipped ...

Your essential guide

Everything you need to know about Port

There’s no better time than Christmas to open a treasured bottle or two. Ahead of the big day, we asked a handful of our favourite winemakers – from Saskia de Rothschild to Klaus-Peter Keller – to tell us what they’ll be uncorking For the aperitif For Domaine Long-Depaquit’s Matthieu Mangenot it is the energy and power of Champagne Brut Nature ...

From Saskia de Rothschild to Klaus-Peter Keller

What winemakers are drinking this Christmas

As Steven Spurrier publishes his memoirs, we talk to the wine merchant turned writer about a life dedicated to wine and why he can’t stop buying art  Steven Spurrier might be approaching 80, but his wit, quill and tongue are as sharp as ever. While – as is now the norm – we spoke on the phone, there is ...

The famous writer on wine, art and the Judgement of Paris

Steven Spurrier: a life in wine

Ahead of the publication of his full report in January 2021, the Wine Advocate’s Burgundy critic William Kelley offers his initial thoughts on the 2019 vintage The red wines are simply brilliant: most of what I’ve tasted so far has been beautifully balanced, combining a seductive depth of fruit with very classical levels of acidity; and nor is there any ...

“Simply brilliant,” says the Wine Advocate critic

William Kelley on Burgundy 2019

Each month, we ask a handful of our team to pick a wine or spirit they’ve tasted recently – a bottle that surprised, delighted or merely lived up to high expectations. Here’s what they chose 2001 Château la Mission Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux “A couple of weeks ago, in an attempt to try and cheer up ‘Lockdown 2.0’, I decided to ...

Stand-out bottles gracing the FINE+RARE team's tables

In the glass: what our team is drinking

The 2016 vintage in Montalcino is one of the best we’ve tasted – and the critics have now had their say. Here’s an overview of what the Wine Advocate, Vinous and James Suckling are saying, as well as the wines they rate most highly This week saw the release of the Wine Advocate’s first report on 2016 Brunello di Montalcino, ...

Our round-up of the reports from Vinous, Wine Advocate and James Suckling

Brunello 2016: what the critics are saying

From the latest Brunello and Burgundy releases to a Canadian rye whiskey, there’s no shortage of exciting wines and spirits coming out this month – but here’s our pick of the best BRILLIANT BRUNELLO With all the excitement surrounding the releases of the straight Brunellos from 2016, December will see the 2015 Riservas share some of the limelight. Riservas are ...

What to look out for this December

Looking out across the Côte d’Or, the astute might notice a few more gaps amongst the rows of vines than normal. Dig a little deeper, listening to nervous murmurs in cellars around the region, and you’ll hear that there’s trouble below the surface – with a once-favoured rootstock the culprit. Jasper Morris MW – leading Burgundy expert and Inside Burgundy ...

Jasper Morris MW investigates a rootstock causing trouble in Burgundy

The root of the matter

The 2019 vintage was the second in a trio of hot years for Burgundy, the region’s producers fast becoming used to what is the new norm. Here Sophie Thorpe looks at how global warming is impacting the Côte d ’Or and what the region’s vignerons are doing to cope with their shifting climate “C’est quoi, traditionnel, aujourd’hui?” Marion Raphet half-jokes ...

How producers are managing global warming

Adapt or die: dealing with climate change in Burgundy

As the Brunello 2016s are released, Gavin Smith examines the varied terroir of Montalcino, as one way to decipher the different styles of this beautifully varied landscape. Brunello di Montalcino is so well established in today’s world of fine wine; it is hard to believe how relatively young its international reputation is. While it all began with Clemente Santi in ...

Exploring the region's varied terroir

Your guide to Montalcino

Each of these wines stood out in our tastings this year – coming with an unusual back story, or from an appellation you wouldn’t expect for the producer. All of them have somehow managed to stay out of the limelight, but are, in our view, more than worthy of your attention  2019 VOUGEOT, PREMIER CRU, LES PETITS VOUGEOTS,  ...

Wines that should be on your wish-list

Burgundy 2019: under-the-radar gems

This week we caught up with some of Brunello di Montalcino’s top producers for their insight into this exceptional vintage  Coming off the back of an extremely successful 2015 vintage, 2016 is a fascinating comparison. Both are exceptional but with distinctly different personalities. 2015 is exuberant, rich and decadent; 2016 is arguably more precise, detailed and elegant. No doubt these vintages will ...

This week we caught up with some of Brunello di Montalcino’s top producers for their insight into this exceptional vintage 

Brunello 2016: a magical year in Montalcino

Of all the 2019s we tasted, these are the ones that we think offer the best bang-for-buck this year – from Bourgogne Rouge to Grand Cru Chablis 2019 BOURGOGNE BLANC, DOMAINE DE MONTILLE The specific clones of Chardonnay used in De Montille’s Bourgogne Blanc make it particularly special. Most Bourgogne Blanc is made with higher-yielding clones which have a tendency ...

The wines that really overperformed in 2019

Burgundy 2019: top-value buys

Each year we focus on the new vintages released from Burgundy, Bordeaux and elsewhere. In an era when truly bad vintages are a thing of the past, Gavin Smith wonders whether in fact it's the hand of the winemaker that reigns supreme At the time of the latest vintage release from Burgundy, it is always the year’s conditions that dominate ...

Or does the hand of the winemaker reign supreme?

Does vintage matter?

In the first of a new monthly series, we ask a handful of our team to pick a wine or spirit they’ve tasted recently – a bottle that surprised, delighted or merely lived up to high expectations. Here’s what they chose 1959 Glenfarclas, 60-Year-Old, Single Cask, Single Malt Scotch Whisky (40.9%) “Few distilleries have the foresight, nor luxury, of laying ...

Stand-out bottles from our team

What we're drinking

There was no shortage of brilliant wine in 2019 – and narrowing down a list of favourites from the many superb wines we tasted wasn’t easy. These 10, however, stood out in the year's enviable line-up 2019 Meursault, Premier Cru, Gouttes d’Or, Louis Jadot Gouttes d’Or is one of the cooler Premier Cru sites in Meursault and therefore excels in ...

Our pick of the year's crop

Burgundy 2019: our favourites

Napa’s top names are starting to release their 2018s. We talk to some of the valley’s top names to find out more about the vintage, a year that shows great promise While critics are mostly yet to publish their reports on Napa’s 2018, the early reviews are outstanding. Alder Yarrow describes it as “a complete knockout, with phenomenal potential” and ...

A vintage tipped for greatness

Napa 2018: vintage report

From parcels of back-vintages to new releases and special casks, here’s our pick of the five most exciting wines and spirits coming your way in November Burgundy 2019 The 2019s from Burgundy are starting to trickle out; expect the flood-gates to really open this month. Keep an eye out for releases from Henri Boillot, Charles van Canneyt, Remoissenet, Jadot, Mischief ...

What to look out for this November

As last week’s look at 2019 white Burgundy revealed, the vintage is rapidly proving to be one of the most exciting in recent memory. Here Sophie Thorpe reports on the reds – wines of outstanding balance that have a long future ahead of them As we’ve already discussed in our pieces on Chablis and the whites of the Côte de ...

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