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Domaine de Montille is now without doubt one of the finest producers in Burgundy and an estate with a very interesting recent history. The late Hubert de Montille inherited the domaine in the 1950s when it stood at just three hectares. He built this up over the years and was not only a pioneer of estate bottling, he was a pioneer for terroir: wines with a sense of place. Hubert’s wines were often a little on the hard side in their youth, and took considerable time in the cellar to come round, though are quite, quite exceptional at maturity and very true to their vineyard origins.
His son, Etienne has been in complete charge since 1995, having assisted his father here since the early 1980s. Etienne moved to fully organic farming in 1995, and the transition to biodynamic farming began in 2005; at the same time the domaine expanded into the Côte de Nuits, with some exceptional plots in Nuits St Georges and Vosne.
The style has changed – the wines are much softer and silkier in their youth - though terroir remains the key: respecting it and expressing it. Etienne favours whole bunch fermentation and this lends a flamboyant edge to the wines, which continue to get better and better each year. These are exceptionally pure and exquisitely made wines.
The jewels of the estate lie in Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts. Etienne has three plots, one of which sits nestled up to La Tache. This plot is vinified separately to make Cuvee Christiane: an exceptional example of Vosne Romanee at its very best.
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