2008 Vosne Romanee Les Brulees Meo-Camuzet

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Average critic rating : 92.75 points



Not surprisingly, this is more elegant and refined than the Clos Rognets with moderate oak influence tussling somewhat against the pretty, layered and highly spiced red berry fruit and violet aromas that dissolve into delicious and impressively concentrated flavors that are more refined and very pure, all wrapped in a rich, full and sweet finish of outstanding length. A quintessential Vosne but one with power and punch. Allen Meadows, Burghound Jan30,2010



The Meo-Camuzet 2008 Vosne-Romanee Les Brulees – tasted from thank –displays what for this vintage and address is by now familiar blackberry jam, here flatteringly mingled with violet and lily perfume; nutmeg, vanilla and cocoa powder; and a carnal and salted caramel melange that calls to mind roasting pan drippings. Heady in aroma and splendidly rich and expansive on the palate, this creams-over its formidable tannins with sheer lush fruit and torrified confections while preserving an invigorating, mouthwatering salinity and animal savor. Palate staining and generous though this is, its strong tannins hang on long enough to have the very last, slightly disconcertingly austere word, reinforced by a suggestion of stone-licking. After a few spits, I had a bit of a time getting my tongue back in between my incisors and my faintly numb gums. I suspect this will want 5-7 years in cellar and be worth holding – and, of course, periodically savoring – for at least 15 years. ||Jean-Nicolas Meo emphasized the contrast between the low pHs of his 2008s (typical, of course, for this vintage in general) and the high pHs of 2007, which ironically – since the latter were given a higher dosage of sulfur as a precaution against undesirable bacteriological activity – led, he reported, to 2007s that showed a harder side initially than many of the corresponding 2008s. Given the high acids of 2008, says Meo, he preferred to let the fruit hang longer – even despite some shriveling – so that few of the musts were chaptalized and most were 13% or higher in natural alcohol. Typical for this address, the wines display admirable, even unusually strong sweetness of fruit, but in 2008 accompanied by prominent tannins and notes of new wood. Meo compares his 2008s with 2001 and 1996, opining that his wines from those two vintages have for the most part – in contrast with many 1993s – evolved nicely and without exhibiting excessive stiffness or hardness. I caught some 2008s in bottle and others from tank just before bottling, and the several 2007s I tasted alongside showed well, although Meo – in contrast with most growers – thinks his 2008 fruit was superior even in sheer ripeness. (Negociant wines – some from parcels the Meos in fact farm – are noted as “Frere et Soeur.”) Wine Advocate.June, 2010

Despite a history that stretches back to the beginning of the 20th century, Méo-Camuzet is a relative newcomer to domaine-bottling, which started here in 1985. Prior to this, the Camuzet vineyards were leased out to sharecroppers and much of it sold to negociants. One such sharecropper was the legendary Henri Jayer , who acted as a consultant to the domaine.

The holdings are significant: grand crus Richebourg, Clos Vougeot and Echézaux and excellent sites in Vosne-Romanée including Cros Parantoux, Les Brulées and Les Chaumes. Three vineyards on the Vosne-Romanée side of Nuits St Georges: Boudots, Murgers and Bas de Combe complete the Côte de Nuits holdings with 1.38 hectares of village Vosne-Romanée. The domaine also has more than a hectare of grand cru Corton in the Côte de Beaune.

The style here is a full one, and Henri Jayer surely still an inspiration. The vineyards are worked organically, and the wines see up to 100% new oak, which integrates perfectly with some bottle age. The premier cru Vosne-Romanées are both from vineyards at the top of the slope, as is the Echézeaux, and these are lifted, mineral expressions of Vosne.

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