2012 Vosne Romanee Cros Parantoux Meo-Camuzet

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Average critic rating : 95.25 points



A restrained, cool and superbly elegant nose features notes of Asian spices, red currant, plum and lavender along with the hallmark mineral nuances, all of which are trimmed in enough wood to notice. There is superb intensity to the refined, delineated and focused medium-bodied flavors that are shaped by dense but exceptionally fine tannins that are impeccably well-integrated on the energetic and explosively long finish that is distinctly saline in character. Like the Brûlées, this is indisputably built to age. Tasted: Jan 15, 2014. Drink: 2029+



My sample of 2012 Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru Cros Parantoux came from the three new barrels produced by the domaine this year. The nose is quite closed at first but opens with vigorous swirling over the next two minutes, offering scents of baked cherries, bergamot, minerals and wild strawberry that are all beautifully defined. The palate is medium-bodied with a firm backbone, layers of mineral-rich black fruit, superb tension and laser-like precision towards the finish. This is an impressive, convincing Cros-Parantoux, one of the best that I have tasted at the domaine. ||Domaine Meo-Camuzet boasts one of the most enviable portfolios in Vosne-Romanee, crowned by Richebourg Grand Cru and Cros Parantoux, the latter essentially grand cru in all but name thanks to the late Henri Jayer, who decided that vines might profit more from the land than a few veg. I have been following the wines for over a decade and visiting Jean-Nicolas Meo’s cellar just down the road from Bernard Gros. Together we tasted through both his negociant and domaine bottlings, partly from pre-prepared samples and others directly from barrel. He told me he had been surprised at the changes in pH post-malo-lactic fermentation, possibly due to a precipitation of potassium that had made the wines feel rounder. Certainly some of the cuvees did have a certain “sumptuousness” about them, but for the most part that tannins were present and correct, lending backbone to offset the occasionally intense fruit. Readers should note that I took a video of Jean-Nicolas discussing the vintage in his cellars, so please access this for further insight. eRobertParker.com.December, 2013

Despite a history that stretches back to the beginning of the 20th century, Méo-Camuzet is a relative newcomer to domaine-bottling, which started here in 1985. Prior to this, the Camuzet vineyards were leased out to sharecroppers and much of it sold to negociants. One such sharecropper was the legendary Henri Jayer , who acted as a consultant to the domaine.

The holdings are significant: grand crus Richebourg, Clos Vougeot and Echézaux and excellent sites in Vosne-Romanée including Cros Parantoux, Les Brulées and Les Chaumes. Three vineyards on the Vosne-Romanée side of Nuits St Georges: Boudots, Murgers and Bas de Combe complete the Côte de Nuits holdings with 1.38 hectares of village Vosne-Romanée. The domaine also has more than a hectare of grand cru Corton in the Côte de Beaune.

The style here is a full one, and Henri Jayer surely still an inspiration. The vineyards are worked organically, and the wines see up to 100% new oak, which integrates perfectly with some bottle age. The premier cru Vosne-Romanées are both from vineyards at the top of the slope, as is the Echézeaux, and these are lifted, mineral expressions of Vosne.

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