2006 Vosne Romanee Cros Parantoux Meo-Camuzet

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Average critic rating : 93.0 points



Whether or not coincidentally, this is also one of Meo's lowest alcohol wines of 2006. Meo-Camuzet's 2006 Vosne-Romanee Cros Parantoux – from the upper section of that already high-elevation, small, and celebrated cru – combines the sweet black fruits and brown spices common to so many of the wines in its collection, with an enervating sense of brightness and energy; a velvet-like texture and refinement of tannins; and a sheer length that go well beyond all but one of its stable mates (namely the Richebourg). Suggestions of berry distillates, candied orange rind, and bitter-sweet herbal concentrates add allure and interest to this seamlessly rich, exuberant Pinot. There are ample, tightly-stitched tannins supporting the plush fabric of this wine, and I would wait until at least 2012 to revisit it, with the expectation of a further decade of pleasure. ||Jean-Nicolas Meo harvested 2006 fruit between 13.25-14.25% potential alcohol, slightly higher than in 2005. Except for a few instances of vineyards touched by hail, he said, he vinified in essentially the same way (including the same percentages of new barrels) as he had in 2005. Meo notes that the pHs of his 2006s ended up quite high after their malos, and while this contributes to their sense of softness and generosity, I sometimes find these wines wanting for some vivacity or primary juiciness. (I have appended to the description of Meo's negociant bottlings the words "Frere et Soeur" that appear underneath "Meo-Camuzet" on their labels.) Wine Advocate.December, 2009

Despite a history that stretches back to the beginning of the 20th century, Méo-Camuzet is a relative newcomer to domaine-bottling, which started here in 1985. Prior to this, the Camuzet vineyards were leased out to sharecroppers and much of it sold to negociants. One such sharecropper was the legendary Henri Jayer , who acted as a consultant to the domaine.

The holdings are significant: grand crus Richebourg, Clos Vougeot and Echézaux and excellent sites in Vosne-Romanée including Cros Parantoux, Les Brulées and Les Chaumes. Three vineyards on the Vosne-Romanée side of Nuits St Georges: Boudots, Murgers and Bas de Combe complete the Côte de Nuits holdings with 1.38 hectares of village Vosne-Romanée. The domaine also has more than a hectare of grand cru Corton in the Côte de Beaune.

The style here is a full one, and Henri Jayer surely still an inspiration. The vineyards are worked organically, and the wines see up to 100% new oak, which integrates perfectly with some bottle age. The premier cru Vosne-Romanées are both from vineyards at the top of the slope, as is the Echézeaux, and these are lifted, mineral expressions of Vosne.

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