2014 Vosne Romanee Sylvain Cathiard



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£1,107.00
£553.00
£95.00

Average critic rating : 89.88 points

88-91

88-91

Very mild reduction shaves the top notes from the otherwise spicy dark berry fruit scented-nose. Like the Bourgogne there is a lovely sense of energy to the detailed, sleek and taut medium weight flavors that possess a beguiling texture before terminating in a balanced and lingering finish. This is very Vosne in character. Jan 2016, www.burghound.com, Drink: 2021+

89-91

89-91

The 2014 Vosne-Romanée Villages was sampled from a new and one-year old barrel. The nose is very pure and seductive with small dark cherries and blueberry, just a hint of violet in the background. The palate is well balanced with plenty of energy in the wine. The tannins seem quite fine and there is a hint of blood orange towards the effervescent finish. Give it a couple of years in bottle. Nov 2015, www.robertparker.com, Drink: 2017-2027

88-90

88-90

(made from five parcels in four lieux-dits; 50% new oak; the yield here was a healthy 48 hectoliters per hectare): Deep, saturated red with ruby tones. Aromas and flavors of black raspberry and dark chocolate. Plush, ripe and concentrated, with plenty of sweet fruit to support the oak element. Finishes with good medicinal reserve and length. Looks to be an excellent and rich village wine. (Incidentally, Cathiard's basic Bourgogne Rouge, with sexy aromas of black raspberry and spices and good stuffing and grip, was one of the more serious examples I tasted in Burgundy this fall. ) Jan 2016, www.vinous.com

90-92

90-92

The Vosne village from Sebastien Cathiard is one of my benchmark wines. The 2014 really shows all the virtues of the vintage … the nose is bursting with delicate red berry fruit … pure, deep and transparent. On the palate rich and energetic fruit … detailed and pure with a fine expression of terroir. A refined and delicate Vosne village in the making. Nov 2015, www.winehog.org, Drink: 2022+

Sylvain Cathiard: The Importance

“Cathiard is now among the very very best producers in Vosne-Romanée,” writes Steve Öhman, fully corroborating Allen Meadows’ judgements that “there is no one hotter in Burgundy these days than Sylvain Cathiard” and that “the Cathiard wines are hardly a secret anymore but they deserve to be better known still.” Indeed, Cathiard has completed an unusually rapid rise to fame in the last decade or less, as Neil Martin attests, “the name is presently revered as one of the top exponents of Vosne-Romanée” thanks to “a glittering array of parcels” in this village and beyond, also encompassing some very old vines Nuits-Saint-Georges and Chambolle-Musigny.


Sylvain Cathiard: The Insight

This small family domaine farms a total of 4.2 hectares split over 11 plots, so production is naturally limited, above all for the glorious Pinot Noir grown in the minute 0.18 hectare plot at the southern end of Romanée Saint Vivant Grand Cru (or RSV), hemmed in between the Domaine Dujac and Domaine Robert Arnoux, and conspicuously crowded by the large tranche belonging to Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. In the hands of Cathiard it results in something very special, with “wonderful depth and simply superb length,” according to Allen Meadows, while for Neil Martin the Cathiard RSV is “a wine that God would make if he were a winemaker.”

 

The Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts vineyard has been gaining attention, particularly since 2005, when Dujac and Hubert de Montille snapped up and divided the old Domaine Thomas holdings here. Clive Coates reviews the newcomers like this: “These both produce excellent wine. So do Lamarche, Bichot (Clos Frantin) and Alain Hudelot-Noëllat. The best wines, however, today come from Sylvain Cathiard.” John Gilman even elevates this Premier Cru above the Cathiard RSV, calling it “the crown jewel in the cellar,” and Steve Öhman sees it the same way: “In my view the Malconsorts is sort of a signature wine for this fine domaine…  yes I know the RSV is better…  but it’s still possible to find and pay for the Malconsorts and experience the Cathiard magic.”

 

The same can be said of Cathiard’s other Premier Crus, such as Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots, situated between the Grands Crus of Richebourg and Echezeaux; Vosne-Romanée Aux Reignots, known for its elegance and shared with such growers as Louis-Michel Liger-Belair; and Vosne-Romanée En Orveaux, where Clive Coates again proclaims that: “the star in is the brilliant Sylvain Cathiard.”

 

Cathiard’s other holdings are impressive for their vine age. While most of his Premier Crus are 35 to 45 years old, the parcel in Chambolle-Musigny Les Clos de l’Orme was planted in 1951, producing stunningly perfumed expressions of the village. Meanwhile the two Premier Crus produced in Nuits-Saint-Georges, Aux Murgers and Aux Thorey, are both endowed with stunningly concentrated vines no younger than fifty,  but sometimes sixty or seventy years old, offering intense earthy complexity. Cathiard also makes excellent Nuits-Saint-Georges and Vosne-Romanée Villages Pinot Noirs.


Sylvain Cathiard: The Background

The wines are made as one might expect at a small domaine, where from 1969 to 2011 everything was done by Sylvain, his wife Marinette, and his son Sébastien. The fruit gets completely de-stemmed after rigorous sorting, with no fining or filtering since 2000. In 2011 Sébastien Cathiard fully took over and oversaw the completion of a new cellar. Since then he has been impressing critics by refining the house style and slightly reducing the use of new oak.



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