2012 Vosne Romanee Remoissenet



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£34.00

Average critic rating : 88.75 points

88

88

A pungent nose combines notes of oak toast, menthol, sandalwood, spice elements as well as both blue and black pinot fruit. There is excellent richness to the wonderfully seductive medium weight flavors that coat the palate with dry extract before culminating in a dusty and well-balanced finish. This is very Vosne in basic character and while it's finer than the Nuits there isn't quite the same level of depth. Tasted: Apr 15, 2014. Drink: 2019+

89-90

89-90

The 2012 Vosne-Romanee Village also comes from two parcels on the southern side of the appellation. It has a tightly wound bouquet that is not playing game at the moment. The palate is crisp and supple on the entry with a dash of white pepper sprinkled over the vibrant red fruit, before it segues into a structured, more Nuits Saint Georges inspired finish. Very fine. ||You may have heard of Pierre-Antoine Rovani. One of Burgundy’s most shy and retiring members, he was his usual taciturn self, uttering all but one or two words during my Sunday afternoon tasting of 2012s in Remoissenet’s 14th century cellars, just off the Beaune peripherique. You know the story here: the name reborn in 2005 when outside investors prompted a Damascene resurrection of what had fundamentally been an also-ran bottling operation, into a quality-driven concern and vinifying wines themselves. Their policy is to buy at premium in order to acquire the best fruit, except for the 2.5-hectare of vineyard that they own themselves. With general manager and former Louis Jadot president Bernard Repolt, winemaker Claudine Jobard and chef de culture Fred Le Prince (a wonderful name that sounds like a lost bassist from Funkadelic), this has been one of the region’s recent success stories. They recently purchased the cuverie at Chateau de Chorey to make the Bourgogne Rouge and Givry Village. They use “342s” as Pierre Antoine referred to them i.e. 342-litre barrels casks for vinifying most of their wines. They have a large portfolio of both domaine and negociant wines that I tasted at a leisurely pace on a Sunday afternoon. And I must say, I was impressed by their 2012s. Sure, not everything hits the spot with such a comprehensive and diverse array of wines, but the fact is that many crus showed very well. As Rovani mentioned, there is a gap in the market for affordable Burgundy, one that will surely expand as the top names become prohibitively expensive for mere mortals. That is where Remoissenet can fit in and having overhauled their reds, it sounds as if they will be working on ameliorating their whites in future years, not that they are anything to be ashamed of now. Hey, and you know what? Even Pierre-Antoine was beginning to lose his inhibition and comes out of his shell by the end of the tasting. eRobertParker.com.December, 2013

Remoissenet Pere & Fils: The Importance

Remoissenet Père & Fils is the domaine long famed for its incredible library stock – extensive holdings in their own cellars which stretch back to the 1950s, 60s and 70s: something unheard of in Burgundy. However, in recent years the domaine has gone through a startling renaissance thanks to the efforts of its new owners, including Maison Louis Jadot and the Milstein family among others, who have reinvested in the vineyards and cellars. Under the management of Bernie Repolt and Claudie Jobard, recent vintages have been outstanding.


“Remarkably transparent to the underlying terroir … we would call the quality of both the reds and the whites as excellent” reports Allen Meadows of the 2014s, while Neal Martin laments that “perhaps with such a large portfolio of crus, gems likes these can get lost in the flurry of reviews, but they can only serve to enhance [Remoissenet’s] reputation among Burgundy cognoscenti.”

 

Producers with ex-domaine stock of back vintages are almost unheard of in Burgundy, where growers usually have to sell everything they bottle to pay for the next vintage and typically hold nothing back in reserve. Reasonably priced ex-cellar stock is rarer still, and this makes Remoissenet, with its perfect provenance, just about unmissable for any lover of mature Burgundy.

 

Remoissenet Pere & Fils: The Insight

The old ex-cellar releases of reds have an astonishing reputation for their youthful energy, with Jancis Robinson billing a 1978 Volnay Clos-des-Chênes Premier Cru as “fresh and hedonistic with what looks like an impressively long active life”, while the domaine’s age-old holdings in Musigny, Clos de Vougeot and Clos-St.-Denis provide an incredible insight into these revered terroirs.

 

As far as whites are concerned, the Montrachet Grand Cru is, and always has been, the star of the show. In 2010 it was “an explosive wine of obvious class and grace” according to Allen Meadows, who was also impressed by the longevity of a 1982 tasted in 2015: “the freshness and vibrancy are such that if well-stored this should continue to drink well for years to come.” Such a reliable source of age-worthy white Burgundy as Remoissenet is a very rare thing, and has attracted the attention of numerous commentators, such as Antonio Galloni, who also remarks: “while most of the top wines are terrific, personally I find just as much pleasure in the many delicious offerings from humbler appellations” and praises “the consistency throughout the range as well as for a number of ridiculously priced bargains.”

 

For example, the Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru, which comes from 70-year old vines of the rare Pinot Fin clone, which produces tiny, concentrated red berries “is nigh irresistible... gorgeous” in 2012 according to Neal Martin, who also urges readers to “take a look at the Saint-Romain Blanc or the Beaune Saint-Désiré that both punch well above their weight.”

 

FINE+RARE regularly shop Remoissenet wines direct from the domaine and can provide access to many excellent vintages.

 

Remoissenet Pere & Fils: The Background

"Over the last few years, Rovani and his team led by General Manager Bernie Repolt, Winemaker Claudie Jobard and Vineyard Manager Fred Le Prince have orchestrated a remarkable turnaround at this historic domaine. A new winery just off the périphérique is under construction and little by little Remoissenet continues to add to their own vineyard holdings. Today's wines are made with an eye towards textural richness and volume. It is not unusual for Remoissenet to be among the last to harvest in the various vineyards they source fruit from”, writes Galloni. This sacrifice of quantity to guarantee ripeness has proven successful, creating expressive wines, which Allen Meadows reports as “remarkably transparent to the underlying terroir.”



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