2005 Volnay Taillepieds Hubert de Montille

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Average critic rating : 94.5 points



De Montille’s 2005 Volnay Taillepieds – destined to remain for a longer time in its (40% new) barrels than most of de Montille’s other wines – ratchets up the intensity from its predecessors. Aromas of black raspberry, flowers and pungent, charred, dusty, ore-like and crushed stone mineral notes set a serious tone for what follows. Ripe, spiced black fruits and a soy-like savor team up for a palate of terrific richness, palpable density, abundant fine tannins, but also an enormous sense of energy and mouth-watering enticement. Wet stone, chalk, wood smoke, and charred meat make for a somber, low-toned side to this wine’s impressively persistent finish, but neither is there a lack of (black) fruit or savory salinity. This superbly concentrated and structured wine needs at least 10-12 years in the cellar, I suspect. ||Various importers, including Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 559 1040. Also, a Thomas Calder Selection, Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29 Wine Advocate.June, 2007

Domaine de Montille is now without doubt one of the finest producers in Burgundy. This is a domaine with considerable history: Hubert de Montille inherited the domaine in the 1950s. A pioneer of domaine bottling, he is one of the grand old men of Burgundy. His son, Etienne has been in charge since 1995, having assisted his father here since the early 1980s. Etienne moved to fully organic farming in 1995, and the transition to biodynamics began in 2005; at the same time the domaine expanded into the Côte de Nuits, with some exceptional plots in Nuits St Georges and Vosne, including a very special parcel of Les Malconsorts – Cuvee Christiane - from vines just under La Tache.

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