2008 Volnay Les Chevret Henri Boillot

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Average critic rating : 90.0 points



Boillot’s 2008 Volnay Les Chevrets – from a little-known site bordered by Caillerets and Santenots and with just four owners – juxtaposes bright, ripe cherry and blackberry with marrow-rich beef stock. Black tea, white pepper, fresh ginger, and cherry pit lend smokiness, pungency and piquancy to a palate-staining performance. Stony notes and firm tannins lend this an undertone of austerity but it will still prove useful in its youth, and I suspect more so after it’s had 3-5 years in bottle. It should keep well for at least a decade. ||In 2008, Henri Boillot both expanded his domaine and became ambitious qua negociant with Pinot. In the latter capacity, he looks for contracts where he can exercise control over the farming, so that, for example, all of the 2008s – he reports – were cropped at less than 20 hectoliters per hectare and picked very late. Unorthodoxly (for Burgundy, at least) Boillot pressed many of his reds early to let them complete fermentation in barrel. His malos were late but not dramatically so, finishing in August, and most of the wines were bottled in February, a few earlier. (I tasted several 2007 reds from Boillot, but too early-on to adequately assess, and I have not had time to revisit that collection.)||Various importers Wine Advocate.June, 2010

Since taking full control of the family estate, Domaine Jean Boillot, in 2005, winemaker Henri Boillot has become renowned for the sheer quality of his wines, made using vines which are more than 60 years old. He renamed the estate Domaine Henri Boillot soon after taking it over to eliminate confusion with his brother’s estate, Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot.Boillot’s negociant arm, Maison Henri Boillot, is a benchmark producer of French estate wines which are outstanding examples of some of the Cote d-Or's most prestigious crus. From village-style Meursaults to Le Montrachet, Boillot’s wines have an intense minerality and are structured, linear and ageworthy. Although Henri does not own the vineyards from which his grapes are sourced, he farms them as meticulously as his own and uses the same methods to make the wines.

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