2012 Volnay Clos de la Bousse d'Or Domaine de la Pousse d'Or

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Average critic rating : 90.5 points



As is virtually always the case this is aromatically more elegant than the Clos l'Audignac with its pure and very fresh essence of red pinot fruit, spice, violet and sandalwood scents. There is an equally elegant mouth feel to the well-delineated and discreetly mineral-inflected medium-bodied flavors that possess the barest trace of backend asperity that is just enough to notice. Tasted: Apr 15, 2014. Drink: 2019+



The 2012 Volnay 1er Cru Clos de la Bousse d'Or, from the 2.13-hectare climat located just outside the village in limestone soils, has an appealing, almost languid bouquet without dispensing with the requisite delineation. It unfolds at its own pace with dark cherries, cassis and a scintilla of black tea. The palate has a sorbet-fresh entry with hints of dark chocolate informing the luscious dark berried fruit. There is good density and length on the finish with freshness from start to finish. This should turn out to be a pretty, approachable Volnay. ||Domaine de la Pousse d'Or is one of the most picturesque estates in Burgundy, perched imperiously on the southern flank of Volnay village. With his hounds encircling his legs, I met with Patrick Landanger who became proprietor back in 1997 due to the untimely passed of Gerard Potel. His intentions of becoming a silent shareholder were changed and having acquired the remaining shares from the Potel family, found himself the sole proprietor. He got the bit between his teeth, expanding the domaine's holdings up unto Corton and down into Puligny, converting the vineyard to organic viticulture with an eye on biodynamics. We tasted the wines in his multi-tiered cuverie as assembled blend taken directly from vat. Patrick was keen to stress his dedication to sorting, first via a vibrating table, then a second by eye and hand, then electronically. The result is very pure fruit that fortunately is not taken to the extreme so that it erases the nuances of each terroir. Moreover, I appreciate the prudent use of new oak here. This is another estate, like Marquis d'Angerville, that has a ceteris paribus approach i.e. it is maintained at 30% so that those nuances of terroir can be observed without being skewed by the level of wood. There have been occasions, most notably apropos the 2009 vintage, where I felt that there was a touch of over-ripeness evident in the wines. In 2012 I only discerned one cuvee that exhibited similar traits, the Bonnes-Mares, which came across rather ostentatious compared to the far more refined Clos-de-la-Roche. Otherwise, these 2012s from La Pousse d'Or are worth seeking out. eRobertParker.com.December, 2013

The domaine de la Pousse d’Or, near Beaune, has been owned since 1997 by Patrick Landanger, who has invested considerably in the Burgundian estate. The 18 hectare vineyard covers mainly premier and grand cru sites in Morey-Saint-Denis, Chambolle-Musigny, Corton, Pommard, Volnay, Puligny-Montrachet and Santenay. Domaine de La Pousse d’Or wines are some of the top examples from the region.

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