2006 Volnay Clos de la Bousse d'Or Domaine de la Pousse d'Or

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Average critic rating : 89.33 points



This is less aromatically elegant than the Caillerets but more complex with a layered nose of red and blue pinot fruit, earth and mineral hints that are also reflected back by the nicely rich and full yet detailed flavors that are supple and beautifully textured on the admirably long finish. This is a wine of finesse as the tannins are extremely fine. Lovely juice.

Patrick Landanger described 2006 as having a "very warm April, a great June and very hot and dry July but August was difficult because it was wet, cloudy and we had limited luminosity. By contrast, September was essentially perfect and for all intents and purposes, saved the harvest. Our goal is to produce right around 35 hl/ha and 2006 gave us between 37 and 38 though that was after a small sorting loss of around 5%. We began picking on the 21st of September and had good sugar levels so there was almost no chaptalization. I did a bit more punching down at the beginning but toward the end of the cuvaisons, which lasted from 20 to 22 days, we did much less. I used between 30 and 40% new wood and bottled without fining or filtration. In terms of the wines, they're really quite pretty and I think they'll age better than people believe as they're very balanced." While it's true that these '06s are not quite up to the quality of the stellar Pousse d'Or '05s, they're not far off. Landanger continues to improve every vintage in terms of the purity of his fruit and in particular, the sophistication of the supporting tannins. In other news, Landanger was the successful bidder for the Daniel Moine-Hudelot vineyards and will have for 2008 some Bonnes Mares and Amoureuses as well as several other small parcels of certain Chambolle 1ers, which may be sold separately or blended into a 1er cuvée. The price, which I was asked not to disclose, was indeed astronomical. Apr 2008, www.burghound.com, Drink: 2011+



Dark red. Deeper, brooding aromas of black cherry and stone. Broader and fuller than the Caillerets but light on its feet, with black cherry, licorice and menthol flavors. Still rather backward today but pliant on the finish, with suave tannins spreading out to dust the palate. Mar 2009, www.vinous.com



The Pousse d'Or flagship 2006 Volnay Clos De La Bousse d’Or is unusually smoky and gamey in aroma for a youthful wine from this site. Dried fruits and pungent, exotic spices – ginger, allspice, coconut, and tamarind – convey undeniable allure, but spice segues into a slightly tough chew of fruit skins and resinous stickiness in a finish that wants for a pit of transparency and lift. That said, it is of course early days for this well-concentrated Volnay, and I am sure it has significant aging potential, though I suspect it may quickly evolve in a decidedly gamey, leathery direction. Dec 2009, www.robertparker.com

The domaine de la Pousse d’Or, near Beaune, has been owned since 1997 by Patrick Landanger, who has invested considerably in the Burgundian estate. The 18 hectare vineyard covers mainly premier and grand cru sites in Morey-Saint-Denis, Chambolle-Musigny, Corton, Pommard, Volnay, Puligny-Montrachet and Santenay. Domaine de La Pousse d’Or wines are some of the top examples from the region.

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