2012 Volnay Caillerets Ancienne Cuvee Carnot Bouchard Pere & Fils



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£309.00
£212.00

Average critic rating : 88.0 points

87

87

A judicious dose of wood serves as a discreet background for the essence of dark raspberry, cherry and soft earth aromas. There is fine concentration to the intensely mineral-driven medium weight flavors that culminate in a mildly drying finish as it strikes me that the underlying tannins lack just the last 5 to 10% of phenolic maturity. It's of course possible that this will harmonize in time but I have my doubts and as a result I have shortened my suggested drinking window because if I am correct about the lack of complete maturity, the dryness will only become more apparent with time in bottle. Tasted: Apr 15, 2014. Drink: 2016+

89

89

Hail destroyed most of Bouchard Pere’s Volnays, for example, there are only 400 liters of the Clos des Chenes that will be for private use. Still, there is a 2012 Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets Ancienne Cuvee Carnot that has a perfumed bouquet with blackberry, iodine and plenty of crushed violets, which Philippe Prost mentioned are typical from this plot. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent ripe tannins. The acidity is nicely judged and there is a gentle grip in the mouth. Solid and dense toward the finish, this is a solid, masculine Volnay that has the linearity of a Pommard. Drink 2016-2026+ ||Although I tasted the wines of this Burgundy grand maison in London, I spent a morning with winemaker Philippe Prost to go through at least part of their large portfolio to get an insight into Bouchard Pere & Fils. Ever since Michel Bouchard established the house in 1731, it has been a permanent fixture in Burgundy, surviving seizure by the State after the Revolution, phylloxera, two World Wars and periods when the world simply was uninterested in Burgundy. Today they own 130 hectares of vines, more than any Bordeaux chateau, including 12 grand crus and 74 premier crus. Wine Advocate.February, 2014

Bouchard Père & Fils: The Importance

The definitive Burgundy négociant is Bouchard Père & Fils, which, in Clive Coates’ opinion, is among the region’s best. Allen Meadows is regularly impressed by wines from this domaine, with old vintage stock providing a backdrop for the youthful recent releases, which have been on a noticeable upward curve in recent years. Steen Öhman tells his readers that he is “a big fan of the Bouchard whites, as they represent purity and refinement.”

 

Bouchard Père & Fils: The Insight

In Robert Parker’s opinion, the highlights of the domaine's offerings include their "flagship" Beaune-Grèves Vigne de l’Enfant Jésus, their "outstanding" parcels in Volnay, Vosne-Romanée, and Gevrey-Chambertin; and their "exceptional" holdings in Meursault, Puligny, and Chassagne, including "enough Chevalier-Montrachet to justify two separate bottlings".

 

Parker has reason to be impressed: Bouchard is the biggest landholder in Burgundy, with 43 bottlings from 74 Premier Cru vineyards spanning Burgundy, and 13 Grand Cru bottlings from 12 Grand Cru hectares. These include legendary terroirs such as La Romanée, “a stellar wine” according to Pierre Rovani, as well as a tremendous range of white wines of which Steen Öhman tells his readers that he is “a big fan.” For him, “they represent purity and refinement,” a view that is corroborated by John Gilman who describes recent vintages of the whites as “stunning”.

 

The 2010 Montrachet from Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils is pure magic in the bottle,” writes Gilman, while the 2011 is “utterly exhilarating and profound” and the 2012 “also brilliant.” According to Allen Meadows, the Gevrey-Chambertin, Chambolle-Musigny provide “top value,” as does the white Puligny-Montrachet.

 

Bouchard Père & Fils: The Background

John Gilman has emphatically praised Bouchard’s move away from “aggressively spicy” Taransaud barrels for the élevage of their red wines starting in 2011. Gilman also notes that this kind of barrel has never been used for the white wines at Bouchard, which earn high praise from Gilman in every recent vintage.

 

Changes of management are nothing new at Maison Bouchard, whose cellars in Beaune have been in constant production since 1731, with vineyard holdings expanding drastically at the end of the 18th Century. The 19th Century was marked by intensified vineyard plantings in Beaune and the family schism that gave rise to the négociant firm Bouchard Ainé & Fils. As of 2015, Bouchard is part of “La Vigie,” a collection of wine estates managed by the family-run Champagne House Henriot. The highly-regarded Chablis producer William Fèvre is in the same stable, having been originally acquired by Bouchard in 1998.

 



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