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Average critic rating : 90.0 points
The 2013 Romanée-Saint-Vivant “Les Quatre Journaux” has a very floral bouquet with violets and lily scents augmenting the perfumed red fruit that is designed to flatter. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, quite edgy in the mouth with satisfactory depth and quite structured toward the more Richebourg-like finish. It needs a little more clarity and detail, although there is respectable length. ||The 2013s from Louis Latour were the only ones that I did not taste in Burgundy this year. They were tasted at their agency office in central London where winemaker Bruno Pépin was present. He told me that they faced the same challenges as other growers in 2013, though he was thankful that his Corton Clos du Roi was one that was untouched by hail, though Volnay en Chevret lost 40% of production and Pommard Epenot 50% to 60%. Of course, he had to spray against disease by hand and by tractor. His fruit reached 11.8 to 12.2 degrees potential alcohol for the red, and 11.6 to 12.2 degrees for the white when he commenced picking on October 1, the first time that they have started in this month since 1987. Bruno also told me that they picked over nine days instead of the usual 12, expediting the harvest because of the inclement forecast. I did ask the pertinent question: will the 2013 reds be pasteurized before bottling? Bruno raised a wry smile and offered neither a yes or no, commenting that the issue is "under discussion.' In terms of quality, I have to say that there is still room for improvement in these wines that too often felt, for want of a better word, a bit anonymous. Even in vineyards that have something to say, the wines felt balanced, but lacking intrinsic aromas and flavors. Even the Le Montrachet '13 just failed to take off, and I had a strong preference for the Corton-Charlemagne '13 instead. As for the reds, again they needed more complexity and terroir-expression, while the Clos de Vougeot tasted strangely lactic. The next wine, the Echézeaux was far better and showed what can be done. eRobertParker.com.December, 2014
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