2011 Riesling Le Kottabe Josmeyer



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£223.00

Average critic rating : 87.0 points

87

87

Enticing scents of mint, rowan and nutmeg mingle in Josmeyer's 2011 Riesling Le Kottabe with intimations of the fresh apple and lime rind that dominate on a firm, tight, tart-edged palate. It would have been nice to have witnessed a bit more primary juiciness and refreshment from this cuvee but it certainly finishes persistently in its slightly bitter way (a bitterness no doubt reinforced by the wine's 13.9% alcohol). I would plan on drinking this by 2015. ||The collaboration between Jean Meyer's daughter, Isabelle, and her now former husband, Christophe Ehrhart continues to work admirably, based on evidence of their most recent collections as well as the manner in which they jointly presented these to me. Here is another address at which one should not miss the distinctively successful 2010 vintage Pinot Gris bottlings (or the one terrific Gewurztraminer I tasted), wines that - while having undergone malolactic transformation - display uncommon vivacity and clarity for their cepage. The corresponding Rieslings - most of which also underwent malo - reflect varying degrees of success, whereas in 2011 the team here was especially successful with that grape. Meyer and Ehrhart openly and with after-the-fact amusement discuss the frequency with which - at least, in the initial rounds - their wines are rather frequently rejected for cru status by the official tasting panels on account of alleged "a-typicity," which in some instances appears to translate into insufficient sweetness. They even had a wine of 14.2% alcohol rejected for "lacking material"! I'm afraid that such tales only reflect badly not just on the methodology of I.N.A.O. -oversight- but also on a self-reinforcing trend toward grand cru wines that are very obvious and high in alcohol as well as residual sugar, while rejecting those that display finesse, delicacy or understatement. eRobertParker.com.August, 2014

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