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Average critic rating : 89.0 points
High-toned suggestions of herbal extracts in the nose of Josmeyer's 2011 Riesling Le Dragon mingle with smoky-sweet hints of machine oil. Water retention, active lime and breezes that characterize the generally warm location where this is grown (for more about which consult my review of the 2009 in issue 194) have combined to keep this wine's alcohol at a remarkably low 12.2%, and that definitely translates into levity and refreshment on a firm but infectiously juicy, apple- and white peach-saturated palate. (This was also picked significantly earlier than were the grapes for the corresponding "Le Kottabe.") There is something cucumber-like about the crisp and juicy personality on display here, and its green herbal elements pull on the palate and in the finish in a salad-like direction. Plan to relish it through at least 2015. ||The collaboration between Jean Meyer's daughter, Isabelle, and her now former husband, Christophe Ehrhart continues to work admirably, based on evidence of their most recent collections as well as the manner in which they jointly presented these to me. Here is another address at which one should not miss the distinctively successful 2010 vintage Pinot Gris bottlings (or the one terrific Gewurztraminer I tasted), wines that - while having undergone malolactic transformation - display uncommon vivacity and clarity for their cepage. The corresponding Rieslings - most of which also underwent malo - reflect varying degrees of success, whereas in 2011 the team here was especially successful with that grape. Meyer and Ehrhart openly and with after-the-fact amusement discuss the frequency with which - at least, in the initial rounds - their wines are rather frequently rejected for cru status by the official tasting panels on account of alleged "a-typicity," which in some instances appears to translate into insufficient sweetness. They even had a wine of 14.2% alcohol rejected for "lacking material"! I'm afraid that such tales only reflect badly not just on the methodology of I.N.A.O. -oversight- but also on a self-reinforcing trend toward grand cru wines that are very obvious and high in alcohol as well as residual sugar, while rejecting those that display finesse, delicacy or understatement. eRobertParker.com.August, 2014
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