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Average critic rating : 93.0 points



While the wood is hardly shy here it's more moderate as it allows the floral and spice nuances on the red currant and black pinot fruit to be seen. There is good underlying tension to the mineral-inflected broad-shouldered flavors that possess fine depth and length if not the structure of a classic example. To be sure this is not soft but it should drink well unusually early. Tasted: Jan 15, 2014. Drink: 2024+



The 2012 Richebourg Grand Cru comes from Bernard’s 0.68-hectare parcel between Cros Parantoux and Aux Brulees towards the upper part of the slope. It has the best bouquet by far: fragrant redcurrant and raspberry fruit, palpable mineralite and engaging floral scents emerging with time, all very well defined and carrying the oak with ease. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, well-judged acidity and a sense of composure and grace on the focused finish. There are touches of licorice just lingering on the long aftertaste. This is very fine full-bodied Richebourg that is ravishing and decadent.||Bernard gave me a superb boogie-woogie rendition of “Amazing Grace” on his Steinway, one that Jools Holland would be proud of, following my tasting of 2012s His grand piano, parked in a cavernous annex of his renovated cellar, is truly something to behold. There it stands against the craggy, fissured limestone walls that form a jaw-dropping juxtaposition against what appears to be the dance-floor at Studio 54. I’ve been visiting this address ever since I started in the wine trade and Bernard Gros’s style has remained unchanged during that period. These are big wines lavished in new oak – always have been and maybe always will be. I cannot help feeling that the range would be improved without resorting 100% new oak on every single cuvee from the village Vosne-Romanee upwards and I sometimes question the practice of heating the wines to 40 degrees for 24 hours to give rounder tannins. Is that over-egging an already very tasty cake? The wines are occasionally subjugated by the new wood and my experience of mature bottles suggests that they never quite shake it off, although there are Burgundy lovers who appreciate that style, perhaps in Japan where Bernard enjoys a strong following. When you start reaching the grand crus, in particular the Richebourg, only then you can see that the intense fruit is able to carry the wood and fully absorb it, allowing the terroir to show through. Bernard Gros is one of Vosne-Romanee’s most entertaining winemakers. I just hope that in future vintages he’ll just retreat a little from the cooperage so that we can see his propitious vineyards., 2013

The Gros name is one of Burgundy’s most confusing: a copy of the Gros family tree is helpful to understand the domaines: Gros Frere et Soeur, Michel Gros, Anne Gros and Anne-Francoise Gros. All are descended from Alphonse Gros, who moved to Vosne-Romanee in the early 19th century.

Bernard Gros is blessed with some of the finest holdings in Vosne-Romanee. The jewel is his 00.69 hectares of Richebourg and he also has one of the finest plots in the Clos Vougeot - “en Musigni” – situated just above the Ch. de Clos Vougeot and just below Musigny itself. This is one of the few plots on the Clos where one can taste some real terroir, some real character to the soil.

Bernard is a pragmatic winemaker – he trained as an engineer before taking the helm at this impressive domaine – and his aim is “un vin de plaisir”: wines of pleasure. Much of the domaine was replanted in the 1980s and his vines are hitting a sweet spot in terms of their maturity. Bernard uses plenty of new oak, which gives the wines a glossy edge and makes them some of the most accessible wines of the appellation.

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