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Remoissenet Pere & Fils: The Importance
Remoissenet Père & Fils is the domaine long famed for its incredible library stock – extensive holdings in their own cellars which stretch back to the 1950s, 60s and 70s: something unheard of in Burgundy. However, in recent years the domaine has gone through a startling renaissance thanks to the efforts of its new owners, including Maison Louis Jadot and the Milstein family among others, who have reinvested in the vineyards and cellars. Under the management of Bernie Repolt and Claudie Jobard, recent vintages have been outstanding.
“Remarkably transparent to the underlying terroir … we would call the quality of both the reds and the whites as excellent” reports Allen Meadows of the 2014s, while Neal Martin laments that “perhaps with such a large portfolio of crus, gems likes these can get lost in the flurry of reviews, but they can only serve to enhance [Remoissenet’s] reputation among Burgundy cognoscenti.”
Producers with ex-domaine stock of back vintages are almost unheard of in Burgundy, where growers usually have to sell everything they bottle to pay for the next vintage and typically hold nothing back in reserve. Reasonably priced ex-cellar stock is rarer still, and this makes Remoissenet, with its perfect provenance, just about unmissable for any lover of mature Burgundy.
Remoissenet Pere & Fils: The Insight
The old ex-cellar releases of reds have an astonishing reputation for their youthful energy, with Jancis Robinson billing a 1978 Volnay Clos-des-Chênes Premier Cru as “fresh and hedonistic with what looks like an impressively long active life”, while the domaine’s age-old holdings in Musigny, Clos de Vougeot and Clos-St.-Denis provide an incredible insight into these revered terroirs.
As far as whites are concerned, the Montrachet Grand Cru is, and always has been, the star of the show. In 2010 it was “an explosive wine of obvious class and grace” according to Allen Meadows, who was also impressed by the longevity of a 1982 tasted in 2015: “the freshness and vibrancy are such that if well-stored this should continue to drink well for years to come.” Such a reliable source of age-worthy white Burgundy as Remoissenet is a very rare thing, and has attracted the attention of numerous commentators, such as Antonio Galloni, who also remarks: “while most of the top wines are terrific, personally I find just as much pleasure in the many delicious offerings from humbler appellations” and praises “the consistency throughout the range as well as for a number of ridiculously priced bargains.”
For example, the Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru, which comes from 70-year old vines of the rare Pinot Fin clone, which produces tiny, concentrated red berries “is nigh irresistible... gorgeous” in 2012 according to Neal Martin, who also urges readers to “take a look at the Saint-Romain Blanc or the Beaune Saint-Désiré that both punch well above their weight.”
FINE+RARE regularly shop Remoissenet wines direct from the domaine and can provide access to many excellent vintages.
Remoissenet Pere & Fils: The Background
"Over the last few years, Rovani and his team led by General Manager Bernie Repolt, Winemaker Claudie Jobard and Vineyard Manager Fred Le Prince have orchestrated a remarkable turnaround at this historic domaine. A new winery just off the périphérique is under construction and little by little Remoissenet continues to add to their own vineyard holdings. Today's wines are made with an eye towards textural richness and volume. It is not unusual for Remoissenet to be among the last to harvest in the various vineyards they source fruit from”, writes Galloni. This sacrifice of quantity to guarantee ripeness has proven successful, creating expressive wines, which Allen Meadows reports as “remarkably transparent to the underlying terroir.”
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