2013 Puligny Montrachet Les Pucelles Henri Boillot



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£1,199.00
£1,199.00
£102.00
£201.00

Average critic rating : 92.33 points

93

93

An expressive nose flirts with reduction yet not so much as to impair the attractiveness of the intensely floral nose where additional breadth is present in the form of orange peel, spice, pear and honeysuckle nuances. The beautifully stylish, intense and fleshy middle weight flavors possess good verve and outstanding depth on the impressively rich and persistent finish. This is generous yet quite classy and should also amply repay up to a decade of cellaring. Jun 2015, www.burghound.com, Drink: 2021+

91-93

91-93

The 2013 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru les Pucelles has the most expressive bouquet with bruised apple, Conference pear and limestone scents soaring from the glass. The palate is clean and crisp with almost piercing citric acidity, superb tension and a clean and precise finish, not unlike the Pucelles that I had just tasted chez Anne-Claude Leflaive. This has a long tail on the finish - excellent. Dec 2014, www.robertparker.com, Drink: 2017-2030

91-93

91-93

More oaky and less open on the nose than the Combettes: "always the least exuberant of these premier crus," notes Boillot. Dense but tightly wound, showing terrific energy to its chewy flavors of lemon oil, flowers and salty minerals. The slowly building, chewy, gripping finish suggests that this wine will blossom with time in bottle. The pH here is 3.19 and the acidity relatively high at 4.7 grams per liter, according to Boillot. Sep 2014, www.vinous.com

Henri Boillot: The Importance

“He has arguably become the finest pure négoce specializing in white burgundy today; yes there are other very fine négociants but the huge majority of them are really domaines hidden inside a "maison" facade that buy in fruit or must to supplement their proprietary wines. And to have done it with the speed that Boillot has is nothing other than spectacular.” Allen Meadows’ judgement here is in fact representative of most critics’ attitude to Henri Boillot’s remarkable wines, and it sums up the attitude to Boillot shared by those in the know. In recent vintages the wines have also gathered superlative reviews from Neil Martin, Steven Tanzer and Antonio Galloni, the latter observing that “a number of the more modestly priced wines far exceed the quality of their respective appellations,” reflecting the perfectionist approach of their maker.


Henri Boillot: The Insight

The stars of the show are the Montrachet, Bâtard-Montrachet and Chevalier-Montrachet Grands Crus. Some of the plots are Henri’s own proprietary ones, while others are leased from growers, but perhaps more than any other négociant, Henri Boillot is proud to regard his leased vines just the same as his own and he spares no expense on their maintenance. The top sites here, particularly the vines based on the Puligny side of the appellation, and indeed the Puligny-Montrachet AC itself, have gone from strength to strength in Boillot’s hands, receiving unanimous approval from all the major critics in every vintage. Further down the Côte de Beaune, Boillot has had spectacular results making Meursault and Corton Grands Crus.

 

Like many great white Burgundy makers, Boillot also makes outstandingly good wines in the Côte-de-Beaune villages traditionally devoted to the Pinot Noir grape: Pommard and Volnay. These wines show distinctive red fruit and offer excellent expressions at the Village level, while the Volnay Premier Cru Les Caillerets and Pommard Premier Cru Les Rugiens stand head and shoulders above the rest, rivalling top producers such as the Marquis d’Angerville and Michel Lafarge.

 

As mentioned above, most critics are seriously enthusiastic about all of Boillot’s production, and Galloni is not alone in finding that “the entry-level wines in particular offer fabulous value.” Even the Bourgogne Blanc receives much the same treatment as the top Premier Crus, that is to say an extended barrel maturation on healthy lees (but no stirring), albeit in a lesser proportion of new oak. Typically Boillot uses 350 litre barrels for the overwhelming majority of his wines and about 50% percent of the wood is new for his Premier Crus.


Henri Boillot: The Background

On taking full control of the family estate, Domaine Jean Boillot, in 2005, winemaker Henri Boillot became renowned for the sheer quality of his wines in record time, using a multitude of excellent parcels, with vines often more than 60 years old. He renamed the estate Domaine Henri Boillot soon after taking it over to eliminate confusion with his brother’s estate, Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot.

 

Henri Boillot's son Guillaume is now overseeing the production of the reds. According to Allen Meadows, “the younger Boillot … is already displaying an unusually sure touch for someone so young.”



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