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Average critic rating : 87.0 points
From a parcel of 70 year old vines against the walls of Chateau de Pommard and acquired in the 2005 vintage, Bernard Dugat's 2006 Pommard La Levriere displays cooked beef, chalk, and bitter-sweet black fruits on a firmly tannic palate. While formidably concentrated, it is – for now at least – stiff and unyielding, and simply not much fun to drink. Perhaps I caught this at an awkward moment, and there is certainly no question it wants us to believe it needs time in bottle. Hopefully, I'll have a chance to revisit the wine in the course of 2010 or 2011. ||As usual, Bernard Dugat prided himself on having been able to harvest ahead of the ban de vendange thanks to the intensity of his vineyard labors and to yields of around 25 hectoliters per hectare. (He also credits the accumulated effects of three years on a biodynamic regimen.) Potential alcohol was for the most part in the high 12s, and only a handful of cuvees were lightly chaptalized, Dugat reports. As usual, too, he employed significant percentages of whole clusters and stems in most wines. For further details on Bernard Dugat's approach, see my report in issue 170. Perhaps it hardly requires noting, but the prices of these wines continue to rise relentlessly, sadly but perhaps inevitably putting them out of the reach of most Burgundy lovers. And unfortunately, I did not get an opportunity to taste the two red appellation Bourgogne bottlings of this estate. Wine Advocate.December, 2009
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