2010 Petrus



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Average critic rating : 97.92 points

100

100

The harvest at Petrus took place between September 27 and October 12, and the 2010 finished at 14.1% natural alcohol, which is slightly lower than the 2009's 14.5%. The 2010 reminds me somewhat of the pre-1975 vintages of Petrus, a monster-in-the-making, with loads of mulberry, coffee, licorice and black cherry notes with an overlay of enormous amounts of glycerin and depth. Stunningly rich, full-bodied and more tannic and classic than the 2009, this is an awesome Petrus, but probably needs to be forgotten for 8-10 years. It should last at least another 50 or more. ||Someone told me recently that Petrus had a second wine, so I asked Olivier Berrouet, their young, talented administrator, whether that was true, and he flatly denied it, so if any Asian wine buyers are running across second wines of Petrus in Hong Kong or on mainland China, be warned – they are not genuine. Proprietor Jean Moueix, who I believe is in his late twenties, has taken over for his father, Jean-Francois, who has largely retired, and the younger Moueix has really pushed quality even higher at this renowned estate. Anyone visiting Pomerol would have undoubtedly noticed the renovations at Petrus, as it was once one of the most modest and humble buildings in the appellation. Moreover, I suspect that multi-millionaire/billionaire collectors will have about 50 years to debate over which vintage of Petrus turns out better, the 2009 or 2010. In a perfect world, most people would love to have a few bottles of each, or at least the opportunity to taste them once in a while, as they have become more of a myth than something real, but these wines do, in fact, exist! Wine Advocate.February, 2013

95-98

95-98

Still tightly wound, offering lots of briar, linzer torte and spice cake flavors, with a dark licorice snap note lacing up the finish. There's lots of grip to this, which is a more structured version of Merlot than a wine like the sleek, fruit-driven Le Pin. But shows a mouthwatering, pebbly feel that should unwind slowly over a long stretch of time. Tasted non-blind. James Molesworth, winespectator.com

19

19

100% Merlot. Very deep crimson indeed. Right out to the rim. Hugely intense and succulent. Really muscular and concentrated. Very firm indeed. Good richness to begin with. Lightly bitter on the end. Wonderful texture. Creamy, with real minerals and lushness on the nose. Great vivacity. jancisrobinson.com

19

19

A distinguished wine. Precise, honest without surfeit. A natural expression of the cru. Affirmed structure and length but tannins suave and refined. Lovely fruit expression. Harmonious. Compelling now but long ageing. More 'classical' than '09. Drink 2022-2060. James Lawther, decanter.com

98-100

98-100

Petrus - This deep ruby tinted wine opens with complex aromatics of flowers, black raspberry, jammy plums and chocolate. Powerful, structured, intense, deep, structured and, mouth coating with densely packed ripe, racy plums. Elegance, sensuality and refined power ending with a complex finish that remains on your palate for close to one full minute that morphs from dark spicy fruit to red berries. Petrus fanatics will be forced to pay even more money for the 2010 as the estate produced 10% less wine in this vintage they did in 2009. The wine will be aged in 50% new oak for 18-20 months. winecellarinsider.com

96-98

96-98

The 2010 Petrus opens with notes of spices, cinnamon, plums, blackberries, cedar and violets, followed by luscious flavours and dense, velvety-textured tannins that caress the tongue. Olivier Berrouet, the wine director, says 2010 had amazing sunlight hours with temperatures that were not high, and the clay soil helped to rejuvenate the water stressed (100%) Merlot vines. Yields were lower than in 2009, at 35 hl/ha. asianpalate.com



Graphs indicate market price trends as calculated by FINE+RARE’s internal market making system and are for guidance only. E&OE.

Chart showing (to 14/11/2016) market price for 12x75cl standard case:

Petrus 2010
+£942.00     (+3.35%) Latest price:  £29,092.00
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Petrus: The Importance

Robert Parker describes Château Pétrus as “the undisputed king of Pomerol and probably the most famous red wine in the world”. He goes on to say that “there have been few Bordeaux wines that match this property for its extraordinary combination of power, richness, complexity and elegance.” At time of writing Pétrus has received nine perfect 100 points scores from Wine Advocate, four perfect 100 points from James Suckling, four perfect 20 points from Jancis Robinson, and no doubt many more to come.

 

Made in tiny volumes of around 3-4,000 cases per year, it is one of the world’s rarest and most expensive wines. Jeff Leve suggests that due to its scarcity “the majority of the price increases take place in the secondary marketplace”, resulting in it frequently selling for what Robert Parker describes as “a king’s ransom”. But this does nothing to dissuade connoisseurs because, as Neal Martin puts it, Pétrus “remains the vinous Holy Grail… There is a palpable sense of occasion when that unmistakable label with its bold vermillion lettering graces the table: an epiphany you will remember.”

 

In short this wine is the pinnacle of what can be achieved with Merlot, it has risen rapidly out of relative obscurity in the 1960s to become the almost ubiquitously present on the bucket lists of fine wine connoisseurs and critics. And it has achieved this based on its outstanding quality, as Neal Martin puts it: “…it is a damn delicious wine. Sounds obvious, but there are many iconic wines that are more impressive than actually delicious to drink. Château Pétrus is nothing more than one of the most satisfying, most profound wines that tastes as good at the end of the bottle as at the beginning.”

 

Petrus: The Insight

Neal Martin calls Pétrus: “an iconic wine familiar to many, tasted by few”, for those who haven’t been lucky enough to try it yet, he says: “Pétrus is a classically trained wine whose trademark is balance, poise, texture, complexity and longevity.”

 

But what makes it so special? One major factor is its unique terroir; it sits on a small 'button' of blueish clay in the Pomerol plateau. The rare smectite clay subsoil is 40 million years old, while the more gravelly soils that surround it are only around 1 million years old. Combined with low yields (Pétrus have been crop thinning since 1973) and perfectionist picking/sorting (grapes are harvested in one afternoon to avoid dew diluting the juice and berries are reputedly picked one at a time), the old vines on this terroir produce a richness that most Merlots cannot touch.

 

Château Pétrus of course deserves its fame. But few would argue against the instrumental influence of one couple and one man in pushing it alongside and then past the First Growths. Jackie and John F Kennedy – a style icon and a president – announced that that they were partial to Pétrus, which piqued a global interest in the brand. Momentum was continued in the 1980s by the frequent acclaim and high scores of a rising star critic in one Robert Parker. Petrus’ celebrity helped to drive up the quality of Pomerol as an appellation, and arguably Bordeaux as a whole.

 

Petrus: The Background

Pétrus is Latin for Peter, who guards the entrance to heaven, which seems strangely fitting for such a wine that is often cited as being otherworldly. Its history can be dated back to the 1750s, making it probably one of Pomerol’s earliest vineyards. Originally thought to have been part of Château Gazin, its worldwide fame didn’t explode until it came under the ownership of Jean-Pierre Moueix. He was a négociant who managed and distributed wines from a series of famous properties, including Trotanoy. He started doing the same for Pétrus and eventually ended up taking control in the mid-1960s.

 

Jean-Pierre Moueix shrewdly brought in Jean-Claude Berrouet, although a relative unknown entity in the winemaking world at the time, his first vintage in 1964 has been described as “immortal” by Neal Martin and “spectacular” by Robert Parker. When Jean-Claude Berrouet retired he passed the mantle to his son Olivier Berrouet, formerly of Cheval Blanc. Jean-Pierre Moueix similarly passed the running of Pétrus to his sons Jean-François (who, in one of Pomerol’s greatest investments, bought 5 exceptional hectares from Gazin) and Christian (Decanter’s Man of the Year 2008 and owner of Dominus). Etablissements Jean-Pierre Moueix now own La Fleur Pétrus, Hosanna, Trotanoy, Lagrange, La Grave, Magdelaine and Bélair-Monange to name just a few.

 

Pétrus’ 11.5 hectares of old vines, averaging around 40 years of age but some significantly older, are now entirely made up of Merlot. As there is no second wine at Pétrus, where the declassified juice ends up is one of the wine world’s great mysteries.



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