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Average critic rating : 90.0 points
Latakia tobacco, beef stock, plum, and blackberry inform the Chevillon 2007 Nuits-St.-Georges Les Vaucrains which somewhat surprisingly displays a more prominent sense of underlying stoniness than the corresponding Les Cailles. There is a bit less juiciness on hand here to compensate for tannin, though the latter is relatively fine-grained. This really grips in the finish, displaying an impressive if static sense of fruity, carnal, and mineral layers. One needs to give it at least 3-4 years I suspect not only to allow for some softening of the tannin but also to take a proper measure of its possible longer-term potential.||Bertrand Chevillon reported the typically late, long malos of the 2008 vintage, and the Chevillon crus were not bottled until last spring – subsequent to my tastings of them, which took place in part assembled from tank and in part from representative selections of barrels. Interestingly, Chevillons report a normal crop level, stressing that vigilance and diligence in vine treatments made for a healthy crop. Most of the musts weighed-in between 12.5% and 13% potential alcohol and chaptalization was minimal. Bernard Chevillon compares his family’s 2008 with their 2001 –an underestimation, I suspect – and his 2007s with the less interesting, structured, fresh-fruited, or consistent 2000s, an analogy that strikes me as apt. (The Bourgogne and Les St.-Georges, incidentally, had been committed right down to the bottle chez Chevillon by the time I got ‘round to tasting 2007s, hence the absence of notes on those.) Wine Advocate.June, 2010
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