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Average critic rating : 92.5 points
More sedate and sweetly-fruited than the other wines in its immediate family, the Chevillon 2008 Nuits-St.-Georges Les St.-Georges displays ripe purple plum and dark cherry; peat and crushed stone; and concentrated red meat juices on an almost plush palate, though one underlain with abundant, fine tannin and laced with enlivening fresh fruit. There is a seamless sense of density and authoritative length here, and while the sheer exuberance and lip-smacking savor found in a couple of the most impressive Chevillon 2008s is missing, I imagine this St.-Georges saying “I’ve got time … see you in 15 or 20 years, if you can keep up!” ||Bertrand Chevillon reported the typically late, long malos of the 2008 vintage, and the Chevillon crus were not bottled until last spring – subsequent to my tastings of them, which took place in part assembled from tank and in part from representative selections of barrels. Interestingly, Chevillons report a normal crop level, stressing that vigilance and diligence in vine treatments made for a healthy crop. Most of the musts weighed-in between 12.5% and 13% potential alcohol and chaptalization was minimal. Bernard Chevillon compares his family’s 2008 with their 2001 –an underestimation, I suspect – and his 2007s with the less interesting, structured, fresh-fruited, or consistent 2000s, an analogy that strikes me as apt. (The Bourgogne and Les St.-Georges, incidentally, had been committed right down to the bottle chez Chevillon by the time I got ‘round to tasting 2007s, hence the absence of notes on those.) Wine Advocate.June, 2010
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