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Average critic rating : 90.5 points
Tasted assembled from tank, the Chevillon 2008 Nuits-St.-Georges Les Chaignots broadcasts an alluring aroma of sandalwood, iris, red currant, cherry, and a marine mingling of salt spray and alkali. Bright, buoyant, finely-tannic, and lip-smackingly marked by its marine mineral cast, the fruits of this site-typical Nuits take on an aura of distillate as the wine takes on air, and seem to darken and deepen as well as pick up a flattering hint of caramel from barrel when headed into it long, multi-faceted, and invigorating finish. The persistence of floral inner-mouth perfume, too, is arresting. I’ll admit – as readers may have determined by now – that I’m a sucker for this premier cru, and especially for the bright, elegant, mineral, in certain ways white wine-like cast it exhibits from the 2008 vintage, almost regardless of custodian. So if you’re like me, you might wish to imagine my score a point higher! I’m betting that this beauty will reward more than a decade’s cellaring, but I’d want to enjoy some in its youth and middle age, too. ||Bertrand Chevillon reported the typically late, long malos of the 2008 vintage, and the Chevillon crus were not bottled until last spring – subsequent to my tastings of them, which took place in part assembled from tank and in part from representative selections of barrels. Interestingly, Chevillons report a normal crop level, stressing that vigilance and diligence in vine treatments made for a healthy crop. Most of the musts weighed-in between 12.5% and 13% potential alcohol and chaptalization was minimal. Bernard Chevillon compares his family’s 2008 with their 2001 –an underestimation, I suspect – and his 2007s with the less interesting, structured, fresh-fruited, or consistent 2000s, an analogy that strikes me as apt. (The Bourgogne and Les St.-Georges, incidentally, had been committed right down to the bottle chez Chevillon by the time I got ‘round to tasting 2007s, hence the absence of notes on those.) Wine Advocate.June, 2010
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