2006 Nuits St Georges Les Cailles Bouchard Pere & Fils

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Average critic rating : 89.0 points



A 2006 Nuits-St.-Georges Les Cailles – originating in a recent Bouchard land acquisition – displays impressive depth of roast game, with site-typical stony, chalky underpinnings. Tightly-knit and firm in feel, this gets its richness from its carnality, with a nod in the direction of dark berries. The overall impression is somewhat somber and austere, but formidably dense and persistent. I would revisit it in a couple of years, and anticipate its being worth following for several more thereafter. A portion of the fruit for this was not destemmed, an approach taken by Bouchard this year with a number of their grand crus as well. ||Director Philippe Prost emphasized the importance of flexible and surgical picking (with a crew numbering upwards of 300) and getting his crop to Bouchard's battery of presses within two hours via a fleet of mini-vans. He insists that relatively little triage was necessary on the domaine vineyards (as opposed to those under contract) and the estate wines are certainly predictably stronger as a group. (I have generally mentioned in the notes that follow which wines are from Bouchard's domaine and which from contract fruit, but have explicitly noted this as part of a wine's description, only if there are two versions of the same appellation within the present portfolio.) The fruit was crushed very gently and the wines racked only once – at 10-14 months, than usual – explains Prost, in order to guard against exposed or drying tannins, a policy which my tastings suggest was generally successful. Importer: Henriot, Inc, New York, NY; tel. (212) 605-6767 Wine Advocate.December, 2009

Bouchard Père & Fils is one of Burgundy’s most important houses, and the largest vineyard holder in the Côte d’Or with 130 hectares of vineyards. It’s holdings include 12 hectares of grand cru vineyards, with significant plots in Corton and Corton-Charlemagne, Le Montrachet and Chevalier-Montrachet. It holds more than 70 hectares of premier cru vineyards, most of which are in the Côte de Beaune, including one of Beaune’s most famous wines: Beaune Grèves Vigne de l’Enfant Jésus.

The company is owned by the Henriot group, which took over in 1995. Run from their impressive headquarters in Beaune, Bouchard has been making better and better wines in the past twenty years, and can be considered a benchmark producer of both red and white Burgundy.

Bouchard’s holdings in Chevalier-Montrachet are their jewel, and they hold Chevalier-Montrachet La Cabotte in its entirety. This vineyard sits just above Bouchard’s holding of Le Montrachet, and is one of the finest examples of Chardonnay. The house also has grand cru holdings in Chambertin, Clos de Vougeot, Echézeaux and Bonne Mares in the Côte de Nuits.

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