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Average critic rating : 90.0 points
The Leroy 2007 Nuits-St.-Georges Aux Allots exhibits bright cherry fruit akin to that of its immediate sibling from Lavieres, but here with greater sweetness; a more invigoration of tart fruit skin edge; and at the same time more tannic refinement. Notes of chalk accent a for 2007 unusually refreshing finish. Here is another wine of this collection one need have no compunction about enjoying in its youth, although I suspect it would continue to reward an owner for at least 6-8 years. ||The results Lalou Bize-Leroy achieved in 2006 – as I wrote in my previous red Burgundy report – were especially notable considering the misgivings she expressed early on about that vintage. She appeared more enthusiastic early on about 2007, but in this instance it’s far from merely notable – frankly, it’s utterly improbable – the richness and complexity that the Leroy team has achieved, especially considering that harvesting began here already on August 27! This collection is quite distinctive even from the very few others of its vintage that come even remotely close in quality. These 2007s display a sense of effortless effusiveness, primary juiciness, and – I don’t know how to put this less nebulously – elegance and in the best instances transparency, contrasting with the impressions of tumescent ripeness, coagulation, and new wood veneer that in some vintages accompany the profound richness of Leroy reds. As usual, the wines were all bottled in December, which at least in this vintage seems less difficult to reconcile with their exceptional quality than it does in vintages like 2005 or 2008, when so many of the other top practitioners of red Burgundy emphasize the need for longer elevage. Extremely low yields are of course also a common denominator among Bize-Leroy’s collections, although in the challenging 2007 vintage, she had somewhat more company than usual among fellow-vignerons in the roughly 20 hectoliter-per-hectare range. (And that was bounteous compared with the 13 hectoliters per hectare Bize-Leroy reports having managed in 2008, a vintage from which she did not want to show her bottled wines until June of this year, so that I shall publish notes on them in my follow-up to the present report.) Wine Advocate.June, 2010
Leroy: The Importance
Leroy is one of the most prestigious names in the whole of Burgundy. Commanding occasionally eye-wateringly expensive prices and garnering impossibly high praise from virtually every wine critic that has tasted them. The quotes speak for themselves:
"Lalou Bize-Leroy stands virtually alone at the top of Burgundy's quality hierarchy... her wines embarrass much of what is produced in Burgundy.” and “Lalou Bize-Leroy. The controversial Lalou must drive many Burgundians crazy given the extraordinary quality of her wines, and the high prices they fetch. She is un uncompromising winemaker, with a portfolio of red and white Burgundies that qualitatively have no peers.” - Robert Parker
"This is the greatest estate in Burgundy... The sheer concentration, depth and intensity Lalou Bize-Leroy manages to squeeze into her bottles is breathtaking." - Clive Coates MW
"Leroy, absolute perfection. More than a model, the wines are an absolute reference." - La Revue du Vin de France
"Their finesse and persistence of flavour is extraordinary." - Decanter Magazine
"The descriptor 'stunning' isn't praise enough..." - Allen Meadows
The iconic wines produced here are the benchmark against which practically all Burgundy is assessed by critics and connoisseurs. The final word goes to Robert Parker, who said: “Today, this is the greatest estate in Burgundy, producing uncompromising wines of irrefutable longevity and intensity.”
Leroy: The Insight
Alongside Domaine de la Romanée Conti and sister winery Domaine d’Auvenay, Leroy produces the most exclusive and highly-sought after wines of Burgundy. Across the vintages and throughout their entire range, their tiny output and immense quality mean an almost perfect storm where supply can never meet demand. This means that inevitably initial allocations disappear into private cellars immediately on release.
Leroy is owned by Lalou Bize-Leroy, described by Jancis Robinson as “Burgundy’s most celebrated vigneronne” and “the queen of Burgundy”. Previously the co-manager of the iconic Domaine de la Romanée Conti, her empire now comprises three entities: Domaine d’Auvenay based around an old hunting lodge, the original Domaine Leroy and the Maison Leroy Collection. Domaine Leroy forms the top tier and for many the pinnacle of Burgundian wine. The Maison Leroy Collection, a continuation of her father’s négociant business, is the “insider” buy and offers an affordable entry to the domain, something not provided by the likes of DRC. Leroy has no contract with any grape growers. Instead three courtiers present a selection of unlabelled wines to Lalou Bize-Leroy, who tastes them blind with no knowledge of price or provenance. She stakes her considerable reputation on her expert palate and market knowledge and selects the Maison’s outturn from what she has tasted. This is one of a few houses that can offer twenty, thirty or forty year-old wines that have lain unmoved in the cellar since bottling. Below you will find the wines from both Domaine Leroy and Maison Leroy Collection.
Due to the exclusivity of Leroy and Lalou Bize-Leroy’s “mesmerizing wines” (Neal Martin), it is virtually impossible to arrange a visit or secure an allocation. However, FINE+RARE have become a valued partner of Madame Leroy over decades selling her wine. This puts us in the privileged position of receiving the largest direct allocation of any UK wine merchant and an invitation to visit and taste with her each year. Therefore, although it is virtually impossible to predict which vintage of which appellation will come next, what is known is that FINE+RARE is the place to access Leroy. But please be aware that allocations sell out rapidly, so make sure your Account Manager is fully aware of your interest.
Leroy: The Background
In the 1950s, Lalou Bize-Leroy began working for her father’s négociant business called Maison Leroy. She dedicated her time to studying the vineyards of Burgundy. She developed an encyclopaedic knowledge of the region’s terroir. By 1971 she was the Presdent/Directrice of Maison Leroy, accompanying her father to meetings at Domaine de la Romanée Conti, an investment her father had made in the 1940s giving him fifty percent ownership of the winery. Three years later Madame Leroy was the co-manager of DRC, where she worked until 1992, raising the status of the domain to its now astronomical level. However, for reasons that have garnered much speculation, Bize-Leroy left and turned her attention solely to her own businesses: Domaine d’Auvenay, Domaine Leroy and Maison Leroy. Lalou Bize-Leroy is often described as elfin, in fact Antonio Galloni has credited her with “the energy of a 20-year-old”, proven by her love of rock climbing. She restricts yields to four bunches per vine, implements rigorous quality control to ensure only perfect grapes make it into her wines, uses biodynamic viticulture, only replaces vines with her own cuttings and doesn’t employ an oenologist relying only on her own skills and the quality of her fruit. The company is one third owned by Takashimaya, the Japanese luxury department store and distributor.
Leroy’s impressive holdings include nine Grands Crus (Corton-Charlemagne, Corton-Renardes, Richebourg, Romanée-Saint-Vivant, Clos de Vougeot, Musigny, Clos de la Roche, Latricières-Chambertin and Chambertin) and eight Premier Crus (Volnay Santenots du Milieu, Savigny Les Beaune Les Narbantons. Nuits-Saint-Georges Aux Vignerondes and Aux Boudots,Vosne-Romanée Aux Brûlées and Les Beaux Monts, Chambolle-Musigny Les Charmes and Gevrey Chambertin Les Combottes), yields are restricted to just four bunches per vine and only perfect grapes make it past the sorting table (Bize-Leroy employs as many pickers as harvesters). Biodynamic viticulture is strictly adhered to within the 23 hectares of old vines and she has not employed a winemaker or oenologist since 1993 and firmly believes that this is not a requirement of a domain with perfect fruit. And as Robert Parker says: “You will simply never get a disappointing bottle of wine from Bize-Leroy. Her wines not only reflect their appellations, but are Burgundy’s reference points.”
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