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Average critic rating : 90.0 points
The 2013 Nuits St Georges 1er Cru les Richmones Cuvée Ultra has a very intense bouquet with penetrating dark cherry, blackberry and chalk dust aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with a firm grip in the mouth. This may turn out to be a more masculine Nuits Saint Georges, but I hope that it develops more flesh and corpulence on the spicy finish that seems just a little austere at the moment and if I am being honest, does not really put a distance between itself and the regular Richemones.||This year chez Perrot-Minot, Christophe escorted me down to his brand spanking new tasting room at the domaine, dominated by a football-pitch-sized oak table that is perfect for hosting large groups of visitors (I demurred inquiring how long it took him to translate the IKEA instructions – we all know how stressful that can be.) Christophe, who for some reason reminds me of Talking Heads’ David Byrne, expounded his views on the growing season. As for everyone, the 2013 was a challenging vintage because of the poor flowering that reduced yields to around 20 hectoliter per hectare. He explained the importance of deleafing and green harvesting in order to reduce bunch compaction, enhance air circulation and stymie the spread of rot. Christophe and his team picked from October 4 and over the following 10 days, relatively late (as usual) and emphasized the importance of sorting both in the vineyard and via sorting table. Everything was destemmed here apart from three of four crus like many growers, he prioritized remontage over pigeage, not with the aim of increasing concentration, since that was already there due to the small berries, but because he wanted to avoid damaging the fragile fruit. He chaptalized approximately one degree to extend the alcoholic fermentation and unusually here, the malolactic fermentation was not tardy, completed between March and May. ||Christophe spoke highly of the 2013 vintage and compared it to 2010 in style, enthusing about the finesse and terroir expression of the wines. I must say, I too found much to admire, Christophe imbuing his wines with that sense of place and less winemaking, a trait that I felt has been conspicuous in previous vintages. The top wines are quite linear at the moment and should gain more flesh by the time of bottling next year. I was particularly moved by his wines from Chambertin, including an impressive Chapelle-Chambertin that was redoubtable and foursquare. N.B. Readers should note that the Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes now includes fruit from La Combe d’Orveaux, so there is only the Cuvée Ultra from that vineyard now. | eRobertParker.com.December, 2014
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