2013 Nuits St Georges Clos de la Marechale Jacques Frederic Mugnier

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Average critic rating : 92.0 points



The 2013 Nuit Saint Georges Clos de la Maréchale has a blackberry and boysenberry-scented bouquet that gains intensity with every swirl of the glass. The palate is compact and precise with taut, slightly obdurate tannins at first, but plenty of freshness. Quite masculine, this Nuits Saint Georges will deserves three or four years in bottle. One of the best offerings from this monopole in recent vintages.||Before I commence a discussion of the wines, anyone fortunate enough to be granted an audience chez Mugnier should pause in the hallway to admire the original advertising posters up the stairwell. They are a reminder of the long history of the estate, its central place within Burgundy and of course, the artistry of advertising wine that would doubtlessly by frowned upon by the anti-alcohol lobby in France in this pious day and age! ||I discussed the growing season with Frédéric Mugnier in his office before descending to the cellar. “Fortunately, we did not suffer a lot of maladies in the early season but there was a lot of rain in July through until September and this extended the vegetative cycle. We commenced the harvest on 5 October in Clos de la Maréchale and picked over four or five days. We cropped in Chambolle on 7 and 8 October since there was rapid development of pourriture, so we had a small window of picking. We finally finished on 11 or 12 October with natural alcohol levels around 12 degrees and the yields were around 20hl/ha instead of around 31hl/ha. We did the same vinification as normal: we did not want to compromise the character of the vintage. We chaptalized so that final alcohol level was between 12.5 and 13.0 degrees but you know, it’s funny, because we use less sugar now than 20 years ago when we had just 4 hectares! The malolactics finished around late summer and we racked last November. There was a spectacular change in the wine after the malolactics: they became much rounder. The 2013 should be bottled around May.” I asked Frédéric if he could sum up his wines. “The 2013 vintage has a very original unique style with strong acidity,” he replied.||As I reported last year, I feel that Frédéric has, for want of a better expression, “found his groove” at the domaine, fashioning a style of wine that he feels comfortable with and expresses the terroir in a natural uncompromising fashion. That is manifested in a quite brilliant Nuits Saint Georges Clos de la Maréchale ’13: one of the most elegant and precise that I have tasted since he retook the vineyard from Bouchard. The Chambolle Amoureuses ’13 is divine as you would expect and I much preferred this to the one possible weak link: the Bonnes-Mares ’13. Whereas many other examples from this grand cru excelled in this challenging vintage, Mugnier’s appeared rather over-awed by both the Musigny and the Amoureuses and was missing some conviction, some of the bravura one seeks in such an respected name. As for the Musigny Vieilles Vignes, it was subtle at first but unfurled gloriously in the glass, not a powerful or intense Musigny, but crystalline and almost nonchalant in terms of its grace.| eRobertParker.com.January, 2015

In the heart of Chambolle, at the Château de Chambolle-Musigny, is Domaine Mugnier. The domaine has been in the Mugnier family since the late 1800s, and has grand cru holdings in Le Musigny and Bonnes Mares, premier cru holdings in Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses and Les Fuées, the monopole of Nuits-St Georges Clos de la Marechale and parcels of village Chambolle-Musigny. Much of the vineyard was leased out throughout the 20th century to Faiveley. The story of the the domaine in its current form begins with Frédéric Mugnier, who took over in 1985.

Frédéric Mugnier is one of Burgundy’s great winemakers. An engineer by training, and a philosopher by nature, he achieves a purity in his Pinot Noir that is peerless. 2005 & 2009 Le Musigny from Mugnier are arguably amongst the finest wines ever made, and his monopole of Clos de la Marechale in Nuits St Georges is one of the most elegant wines of the appellation. The wines are not as fleshy as those of his neighbour, Christophe Roumier, though there is an elegance and harmony to Mugnier’s wines that makes them one of the most complete expressions of Pinot Noir.

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