2012 Nuits St Georges Clos de la Marechale Jacques Frederic Mugnier

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£829.00 DP
£72.00 DP

Average critic rating : 87.0 points



The 2012 Nuits St. Georges Clos de Marechale seems to shrug off that turbulent growing season with a fine bouquet of brambly red berries, a touch of undergrowth and light gravel scents. The palate is crisp and taut on the entry. It is just missing a little weight on the mid-palate, although the finish is fresh and tense with a spicy aftertaste that is very attractive. This should constitute a fine, earlier drinking Clos de Marechale. Frederic explained that in 2012 he co-fermented the two parcels, La Combe d’Orveau (the village cru sector) and the premier cru of “Les Plantes” instead of fermenting them separately before blending them together, which he does because he finds the blend is always more than a sum of its parts. ||It is three years since I last visited Frederic Mugnier at his impressive ivy-clad maison in Chambolle that seems to rule the roost in the clustered village. This is a producer whose wines, I must confess, I was indifferent to when I began tasting Burgundy wine. For sure, there were plenty of plaudits. However, with the odd exception, I could not engage with the wines and was not overly keen on how they evolved in bottle. As the years have rolled by, I have appreciated the wines more and more. Has my palate changed? I do not think so. Rather, Frederic has fine-tuned and adapted his approach and I sense he feels more comfortable and confident in his practices. We had a frank interchange about new oak. Nowadays he has reduced the percentage to about 15%, even for the Musigny Grand Cru. Could he envisage not using new oak at all in the future? Frederic said it could be possible and he seemed wary of unclean elements that may lurk inside new barrels and affect the purity of wines. As such, the more classical, refined style of Pinot Noir suits Mugnier to the ground. I adored the subtlety, freshness and precision of these nascent 2012s that at their peak constitute some of the finest wines of the vintage. The following wines were all tasted from used barrels in September 2013. eRobertParker.com.December, 2013

In the heart of Chambolle, at the Château de Chambolle-Musigny, is Domaine Mugnier. The domaine has been in the Mugnier family since the late 1800s, and has grand cru holdings in Le Musigny and Bonnes Mares, premier cru holdings in Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses and Les Fuées, the monopole of Nuits-St Georges Clos de la Marechale and parcels of village Chambolle-Musigny. Much of the vineyard was leased out throughout the 20th century to Faiveley. The story of the the domaine in its current form begins with Frédéric Mugnier, who took over in 1985.

Frédéric Mugnier is one of Burgundy’s great winemakers. An engineer by training, and a philosopher by nature, he achieves a purity in his Pinot Noir that is peerless. 2005 & 2009 Le Musigny from Mugnier are arguably amongst the finest wines ever made, and his monopole of Clos de la Marechale in Nuits St Georges is one of the most elegant wines of the appellation. The wines are not as fleshy as those of his neighbour, Christophe Roumier, though there is an elegance and harmony to Mugnier’s wines that makes them one of the most complete expressions of Pinot Noir.

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