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Average critic rating : 88.0 points
The de Montille 2008 Nuits-St.-Georges Les Thorey strikes me as a possible demonstration that the relatively bright light style in which this estate’s 2008s from the Cote de Beaune are rendered works less well when applied to Nuits-St.-Georges, as there is a certain rusticity of tannin showing through that might be covered over in a plusher or less transparent style of Pinot. That said, tart red fruits and a smoked meat and bouillon-like combination of carnal and prominently saline elements lend this Nuits stimulating, lip-smacking satisfaction. The tannins suggest elements of black tea and leather but are also simply slightly gum-numbing. I would want to reevaluate this in a few years before judging its potential for longer-term aging. (I unfortunately managed to miss-out on tasting de Montille’s 2008 Nuits-St.-Georges Aux St.-Julien.) ||Etienne de Montille related having taken great pains in early September, 2008 to stave-off encroaching rot and promote ripeness, and felt that his rigorous leaf-pulling and crop-thinning – not to mention eventual triage – paid off sufficiently that he could vinify a substantial portion of the 2008 crop in his preferred manner, utilizing a high proportion of stems and whole clusters (100% in the case of this year’s grand crus and top premier crus). Those wines for which a point spread is indicated were all last tasted shortly before their early spring bottling as finished assemblages in tank – whence they had been racked at the end of 2009 because de Montille did not think their fruit density or lees quality would have supported longer barrel-elevage. (Despite my longstanding predilection for de Montille and his wines, I regret to report that time and circumstance conspired to keep me from tasting his 2007s.)||Various importers, including Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 559 1040; also, a Thomas Calder Selection, Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29 Wine Advocate.June, 2010
Domaine de Montille is now without doubt one of the finest producers in Burgundy. This is a domaine with considerable history: Hubert de Montille inherited the domaine in the 1950s. A pioneer of domaine bottling, he is one of the grand old men of Burgundy. His son, Etienne has been in charge since 1995, having assisted his father here since the early 1980s. Etienne moved to fully organic farming in 1995, and the transition to biodynamics began in 2005; at the same time the domaine expanded into the Côte de Nuits, with some exceptional plots in Nuits St Georges and Vosne, including a very special parcel of Les Malconsorts – Cuvee Christiane - from vines just under La Tache.
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