2014 Nuits St Georges Aux Murgers Sylvain Cathiard

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There aren’t many winemakers who can claim to have transformed the reputation of a vineyard, but Sylvain Cathiard is arguably the man who put Malconsorts on the map. He is now regarded as one of Vosne Romanee’s finest winemakers and his wines, an insiders’ tip just a decade or so ago, are amongst the most sought-after in the whole of Burgundy.

Sylvain is a quiet and unassuming man whose grandfather founded the domaine in the 1930s. Sylvain then worked for his father from the mid-1980s, before taking full control in the mid-1990s. His son, Sebastien, is now making the wines with Sylvain’s direction and assistance.

There is nothing fancy here: low yields, old vines and hard work in the vineyard then destemming, fermentation and 100% new barrels for the premier crus and above. The results are so spectacular in their purity than one can wonder just how it is achieved.

The Malconsorts is the flagship of this domaine and is their largest vineyard holding after village Vosne Romanee. Sadly this still amounts to just 0.74 hectares: enough for 300 or so cases, if that. Other Vosne premier crus are Suchots and Orveaux, and two Nuits St Georges cuvees are made: Murgers and Thorey. These are both on the Vosne side of the village and, with the Cathiard style, are about as seductive as Nuits St Georges can be.

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