2004 Nuits St Georges Domaine Emmanuel Rouget



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£144.00

Emmanuel Rouget: The Importance

Antonio Galloni and Neal Martin both describe Domaine Emmanuel Rouget as “one of Burgundy’s best kept secrets.” This is a surprising fact, given that Rouget is the nephew of Henri Jayer, who was widely considered Burgundy’s greatest winemaker in recent memory. After Jayer was forced to retire, the estate passed to his nephew Emmanuel, who has been honing his style and impressing critics across the board with wines from the historic but tiny Jayer holdings, where Neil Martin warns that “quantities have always been small.”

 

Demand for these wines has always been high, but over the last few years Rouget’s style has reached new heights, impressing Stephen Tanzer with his non-interventionist approach in the 2015 vintage “made totally naturally – that is, without any correction of sugar or acidity.”

 

Emmanuel Rouget: The Insight

Described as “mythical” by Jancis Robinson, the Vosne-Romanée Cros Parantoux, is the vineyard where Henri Jayer forged his unforgettable rise to fame, discovering its potential in the 1950s. “Jayer deliberately did not seek Grand Cru status for this vineyard, however warranted it might be, to save his nephew Emmanuel and family death duties” explains Jancis Robinson, and Allen Meadows reminds us that this Premier Cru is truly tiny at 0.7 hectares of 55+ year-old vines, adjacent to Richbourg Grand Cru.
For Allen Meadows, recent vintages from Rouget are “textbook CP [Cros Parantoux]” referring to the distinctive rich and intense style pioneered by Jayer in this vineyard.

 

“The best value of the Rouget wines is definitely the Vosne-Romanée,” writes Jancis Robinson, for whom the village wine here is “well worth the extra GBP 50 over the Nuits St. Georges.” Also notable is the Premier Cru Les Beaux Monts, yielding “wine which is rich and full, with considerable flair and perfume and a good acidity,” according to Clive Coates. Meanwhile, for Jancis Robinson the Echezeaux Grand Cru is described as “a definite step up from Les Beaux Monts.”

 

Emmanuel Rouget: The Background

When in 1996 Henri Jayer was forced to officially retire by the French government in order to keep his pension, he transferred the vines to his nephew Emmanuel Rouget and continued to oversee production. By the time of Jayer’s death in 2006, Rouget had gained a decade of experience working in tandem with Burgundy’s greatest winemaking legend.

 

The connection with Jayer is more than just mythology. According to La Revue du Vin de France, “The viticulture is done just as Jayer taught it: short pruning and reduced yields in the vineyard. In the cellar, first and foremost comes the respect for healthy grapes, without excessive maturity, so as to preserve the freshness and acidity of the Pinot Noir. Beyond all doubt, Emmanuel Rouget is the only true inheritor of the Jayer style.”



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