2009 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Comte de Vogue

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Average critic rating : 96.25 points



Not surprisingly this still closely resembles the same wine in 750 ml (see herein for that review) and thus I repeat it here where the only difference is the projected drinking window: A fantastically complex nose offers up aromas of rose petals, violets, mint, cassis, black berry and a plethora of spice nuances that continue onto the intense and remarkably powerful imposingly constructed flavors that are blessed with buckets of dry extract that render the presently rigid tannic spine almost invisible on the impeccably and palate staining finish that seems to persist without end. As was the case from cask, I could still taste this several hours later and if given sufficient cellar time, this should be a very fine vintage for this storied wine. Aug 2015, www.burghound.com, Drink: 2034+



The 2009 Musigny Vieilles Vignes fleshes out beautifully with endless layers of fruit that caress the palate in stunning style. Sweet floral notes meld into expressive dark red fruit in this mysterious, evocative Burgundy. There is a weightless intensity to the Musigny that is achingly gorgeous. Waves of flavor continue to build towards the sexy, racy finish as the 2009 shows off its pedigree. The 2009 will always be an exuberant Musigny, but time in bottle will help shed some of the baby fat. This is likely to be a great, great wine for several decades. Apr 2012, www.vinous.com, Drink: 2024-2039



Good bright, deep red. Raspberry liqueur, crushed rock and vanillin oak on the suave, subdued nose; shows the greatest lift of these 2009s. Superconcentrated and creamy but light on its feet, displaying terrific energy and sappiness for 2009. Gained in verve with aeration, with high-pitched, tangy flavors of raspberry, pomegranate, flowers and minerals spreading out to saturate the mouth. With its finishing perfume and taste of limestone, this really transcends the vintage. 95+. Mar 2012, www.vinous.com



The 2009 Musigny Vieilles Vignes from Domaine Comte de Vogüé is a profound young wine in the making. The beautifully complex and again, quite reserved nose offers up a magical blend of red and black cherries, raw cocoa, superb minerality, woodsmoke, a nice note of mustard seed, a definitive touch of iron and a lovely base of new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and beautifully balanced, with a rock solid core of pure fruit, great soil inflection, lovely acidity, suave, but again, quite substantial tannins and great length and grip on the magical finish. This is still a very young wine that will need all of fifteen years to really reach its apogee of maturity, but it is so good that I will be very surprised if hundred and hundreds of bottles are not drunk in its relative youth, as the wine is going to be very hard to resist after only a few years in the cellar. Another great Comte de Vogüé Musigny. (Drink between 2025-2075) 97+. Dec 2010, www.viewfromthecellar.com, Drink: 2025-2075

Comte de Vogue: The Importance

“Domaine Comte Georges is the source of many legendary libations,” writes Robert Parker, celebrating what has been an immovable landmark in the village of Chambolle-Musigny since the cellar was built in 1450. The same de Vogüé family owns the domaine to this day and have placed it comfortably at the top table of Burgundy’s great estates.


Experienced critics note this domaine’s history of great wines, but also note recent improvements in quality. “While I am duly mindful of the many legendary wines this domaine has produced (see the database for all vintages reviewed dating to 1919), the 2005 could very well join the list of the all-time greats,” writes Allen Meadows. Meanwhile Neal Martin awarded higher scores to the 2012s than any previous vintage from the domaine. Of the 2008’s John Gilman writes that: “the 2008s here may well be more on a par with the 1966s, 1964s and 1962s, as they share with those earlier vintages a striking transparency of soil, haunting perfumes and breathtakingly pure fruit tones.” One thing is certain: the quality at this historic address is better than ever.


Comte de Vogue:  The Insight

Described as “the boss” by winemaker François Millet, the Musigny Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes is the top wine produced from the enormous seven-hectare parcel situated dead in the centre of Burgundy’s largest uninterrupted plot of Grand Cru vineyards. This plot used to be its own distinct Grand Cru vineyard bearing the name Les Petits Musigny, effectively a Monopole of de Vogüé. The same wine is often referred to simply as “Musigny,” since younger vines are not deemed good enough for Grand Cru status and rigorously declassified to Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru, which here plays the role of a second wine.


Very different in style, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru is one of the most cultish vineyards in Burgundy. Roumier, Mugnier and Dujac are de Vogüé’s neighbours here, producing some of the Burgundy’s most sought-after Pinot Noir-based wines. De Vogüé holds a very sizeable 2.7 hectares on reddish soils in the southeast sector of the Grand Cru, with the oldest vines dating back to 1945. The wines have been called “magnificent” by Antonio Galloni and “a reference standard wine of stunning elegance” by Allen Meadows.


Meanwhile, the Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru Les Amoureuses is, for Clive Coates, “along with Gevrey-Chambertin's Clos Saint-Jacques, the prime Premier Cru candidate for promotion to Grand Cru.” Neil Martin comments on the 2012: “This is certainly Grand Cru quality and what d'ya know - under blind conditions I gave this exactly the same mark as their Musigny Vieilles Vignes!"


De Vogüé also produces a white wine from Chardonnay plantings in the traditionally red Grand Cru of Musigny. This is the only Côte de Nuits AOC that can produce both red and white Grand Cru wines, and de Vogüé is the only producer with the necessary plantings to make a Musigny Blanc Grand Cru. However, since 1993 all the white wine has been bottled as Bourgogne Blanc, again because the vines are deemed too young to produce a wine of Grand Cru status, though it is still the most expensive Bourgogne Blanc, typically one and a half times the price of Coche-Dury’s.


All of de Vogüé’s wines stand out for their intense and muscular style in their youth, often attracting very long drinking windows from critics.


Comte de Vogue:  The Background

Sources differ on the exact medieval origins of the estate, but the de Vogüé family traces its roots back over a thousand years and is one of France’s oldest noble families, and probably the only one to retain ancestral holdings in Burgundy. Today Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé is owned by Claire de Causans and Marie de Ladoucette, granddaughters of the late Comte Georges de Vogüé (1898-1987), after whom the modern incarnation of the domaine is named.


The wines have been made by François Millet since his arrival in 1986, during this time according to Robert Parker, he has “scarcely spared expenses devoting meticulous attention to virtually every possible detail of viticulture, vinification, and élevage,” often explaining his decisions, such as his obsession with minimum vine age, with anthropomorphic metaphors: “It’s a question of complexity,” he tells Decanter, “the Chambolle Premier Cru is like Musigny in short trousers.” Changes at this old-fashioned estate are slow, but the results speak for themselves.

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