2006 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Comte de Vogue

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Average critic rating : 96.0 points



Francois Millet thinks that there is considerable latent structure as well as aging potential in all of the De Vogue 2006s, and with the 2006 Musigny Vieilles Vignes both are evident. Diverse jellied berries, citrus oils, and floral perfumes indeed seductively fill the nose, and then flood a seamlessly refined palate. At the same time, a sense of chalky and saline minerality as well as marrowy meatiness mount into the finish, taking on further prominence as the wine opens to the air. On the one hand you feel as though you are watching the wafting of clouds of fruit and perfume; on the other the motion of tectonic plates beneath your palate. This superb Musigny is going to be a great source of metaphors over the next 15 or more years, and one could do worse than start with the familiar iron fist wrapped in velvet, because it fits this wine like a glove.||Francois Millet is always keen to pinpoint the expression of fruit he finds in each vintage, and for him 2006 is an instance of "jellied" fruit character. I can certainly agree with him about the seductiveness of the vintage at this address, and his laconic comment on the communal hail – "not too problematic" – seems clearly born out by the quality this estate has achieved. (I unfortunately did not have chance to taste the de Vogue Amoureuses post-malo, so I must refrain from offering a note.)||Imported by Dreyfus Ashby, New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770; also a Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93 Wine Advocate.December, 2009

Chambolle-Musigny has no shortage of stars though Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue is certainly the most aristocratic estate in the village, and the estate with the grandest holdings: de Vogue holds a whopping seven hectares of Musigny – almost three-quarters of the vineyard.

The domaine can trace its origins back to the 15th Century: that it is still intact is remarkable in itself, though its fame as a top producer came about after the Second World War, and it now sits comfortably at the top table of Burgundy’s great estates.

Le Musigny is obviously the jewel of the estate’s holdings: a parcel of the vineyard is planted to Chardonnay which, in theory, will one day be labelled as Musigny Blanc. For the moment the wine is declassified to Bourgogne Blanc on account of the youth of the vines; anyone lucky enough to have tasted this rarity will attest to its remarkable quality.

Other holdings include a significant parcel – 2.7 hectares – of Bonne Mares and just over half a hectare of Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureueses (a vineyard of grand cru quality if not status).

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